International Jewellery London (IJL), a prestigious event in the global jewellery calendar, has unveiled its highly anticipated Spring/Summer 2019 (SS19) jewellery trends. These forward-looking insights are set to ignite inspiration among designers, manufacturers, and retailers, guiding them through the upcoming season’s most compelling aesthetic directions. Curated by the esteemed IJL trend editor and internationally recognised jewellery expert, Paola de Luca, these trends offer a comprehensive roadmap to the future of fine and fashion jewellery.
Paola de Luca, renowned for her profound understanding of market dynamics and her acute ability to forecast design shifts, has meticulously identified six pivotal themes. These themes are not merely fleeting fads but represent deeper cultural currents and consumer desires, translated into tangible jewellery expressions. Retailers and industry professionals attending this year’s show will have a unique opportunity to immerse themselves in these trends, presented dynamically on IJL’s dedicated SS19 Trends Catwalk, where de Luca will elaborate on her detailed forecasts, offering invaluable strategic guidance.
Unveiling the Future of Adornment: International Jewellery London Presents SS19 Trends
The world of jewellery is ever-evolving, reflecting societal shifts, technological advancements, and a constant human desire for beauty and self-expression. International Jewellery London, a leading platform for industry innovation, empowers businesses by spotlighting the styles that will define the upcoming seasons. For Spring/Summer 2019, IJL, under the visionary leadership of trend editor Paola de Luca, has distilled the vast landscape of global design into six distinct, powerful trends. Each trend category offers a unique narrative, promising both novelty and timeless appeal. These are the key themes set to dominate jewellery collections and consumer preferences in SS19:
1. Industrial Core: Urban Sophistication Meets Raw Elegance
The “Industrial Core” trend is a sophisticated ode to the modern urban landscape, drawing profound inspiration from metropolitan architecture, redefined industrial materials, and the minimalist ethos that underpins contemporary living. This trend embodies a strong connection to sleek, functional design, characterised by clean lines, structural integrity, and a subtle yet powerful aesthetic. We anticipate a significant resurgence of links and chains, reimagined not merely as functional components but as central design elements, celebrated for their inherent strength and visual rhythm. These are often presented in their purest forms, reflecting an appreciation for raw material beauty.
Within the Industrial Core, yellow gold emerges as a dominant metal, transforming the inherently utilitarian feel of industrial inspiration into pieces of undeniable luxury. When adorned with carefully placed diamonds, these designs achieve a compelling duality – a blend of the robust and the refined. Silhouettes are intentionally kept simple, often leaning towards unisex designs, perfectly aligning with broader fashion trends that champion fluidity and inclusivity. This contemporary look resonates deeply with the growing movement of eco-conscious jewellery designers who are increasingly creating their pieces from recycled silver, gold, or exploring more unusual, sustainable materials. The emphasis is on ethical sourcing and mindful consumption, giving this trend not just aesthetic appeal but also a powerful narrative of responsibility. Expect to see chunky yet refined chain necklaces, architectural bangles, and rings that play with geometric shapes and exposed fasteners, all while maintaining an elegant, understated gravitas.
2. I’m Perfection: The Art of Deliberate Distortion and Playful Proportions
“I’m Perfection” is a captivating trend that challenges conventional notions of beauty and symmetry, instead celebrating a playful manipulation of proportions to create surreal, optical illusions. This theme is a vibrant fusion of contemporary surrealism with the fragmented, multi-perspective approach of Picasso’s Cubism, resulting in jewellery that is both thought-provoking and visually arresting. It encourages designers to break free from traditional constraints, embracing asymmetry and unexpected forms. Think of rings that defy standard silhouettes, curving around the finger in an unusual dance, or single earrings that are designed to make a singular, powerful statement rather than being part of a matching pair. This trend champions individuality and artistic expression, moving away from perfectly matched sets towards pieces that stand alone as miniature sculptures.
The preferred metals for the I’m Perfection trend are yellow and rose gold, which lend a warm, inviting glow to these avant-garde designs. These metals complement the fantastical nature of the pieces, adding a touch of classic elegance to their contemporary edge. We’ll see an abundance of geometric forms and patchwork constructions, where different shapes and textures are brought together in unconventional harmonies. This could manifest as abstract pendants, multi-dimensional brooches, or earrings with mismatched components that tell a unique story. The essence of I’m Perfection lies in its ability to surprise and delight, offering wearers not just an accessory, but a wearable piece of art that sparks conversation and reflects a sophisticated, individualistic taste. It’s about finding beauty in the unconventional and celebrating the deliberately imperfect or asymmetrical as a statement of personal style.
3. Neo Classic: The Enduring Allure of the Pearl, Reimagined
The pearl, an enduring symbol of elegance and sophistication, continues its remarkable renaissance in modern jewellery design with the “Neo Classic” trend. Far from being relegated to traditional, conservative styles, pearls are now inspiring designers to craft entirely new collections that foreground their timeless beauty while injecting a fresh, contemporary sensibility. This revival is driven by an appreciation for the myriad colours and forms available, from the warm, golden hues and peachy pinks of South Sea pearls to the pristine whites and mysterious silvery-blacks of Tahitian varieties. Each pearl type offers a distinct character, allowing for diverse interpretations and striking colour palettes.
To truly capture the essence of the Neo Classic trend, designers are encouraged to take classic pearl designs and imbue them with an unexpected twist. This could involve incorporating unusual settings, combining pearls with contrasting materials, or arranging them in innovative configurations. Precious yellow or white gold remain the metals of choice, providing a luxurious backdrop that enhances the pearl’s natural lustre. We anticipate seeing pearls used in novel ways, such as stackable charms for necklaces, offering a customisable and versatile approach to adornment. Furthermore, combinations of pearls with medallions or collections of eclectic beads are likely to shine through, creating layers of texture and narrative. This trend bridges the gap between heritage and modernity, making pearls accessible and desirable to a new generation of consumers who appreciate both tradition and individual expression. It’s about celebrating the pearl’s natural beauty in a way that feels fresh, relevant, and utterly captivating for today’s discerning wearer.
4. Dark Romantic: Mysticism, Nature, and Understated Drama
The “Dark Romantic” trend plunges into an enchanting world inspired by ancient forests, timeless magic, and subtle mysticism. It masterfully blends the organic fluidity and decorative elegance of Art Nouveau with an altogether darker, more introspective aesthetic. This trend eschews overt gothic drama in favour of a sophisticated, elegant flair, drawing the wearer into a narrative of nature’s hidden beauty and mystical allure. Expect to encounter designs that evoke pointed forms, delicate yet minimal flowers, intricately twisted branches, and mysterious snakes, all artfully woven into jewellery pieces. These motifs are not presented in a caricatured way but with an elevated sense of artistry and a touch of enigmatic charm.
Far from being ostentatious, the Dark Romantic trend maintains an overall sophisticated and elegant flair. Designs gracefully climb up the ear, swirl around fingers, and entwine wrists, often crafted in gunmetal or blackened silver, which provides a dramatic contrast to shimmering diamonds. The interplay of dark metals and sparkling gemstones creates a captivating visual tension, enhancing the mystical quality of the pieces. Specifically, we anticipate the prominence of double finger rings, elongated shapes that create a dramatic visual impact, and spiky earrings that add a subtle edge without sacrificing refinement. This trend speaks to those who appreciate jewellery with a story, pieces that evoke a sense of ancient enchantment and personal mystery, perfect for adding an alluring touch to any ensemble. It’s about celebrating the beauty found in shadow and the captivating allure of the unknown, expressed through exquisite craftsmanship and evocative design.
5. Op-Coding: A Dazzling Intersection of Art Deco and Optical Art
The “Op-Coding” trend presents a striking and visually dynamic fusion of two iconic art movements: the elegant geometry of 1920s Art Deco and the mind-bending illusions of 1960s Optical Art. This theme is inherently graphic and powerfully minimalistic, centering predominantly on a sophisticated black and white palette. This monochrome approach is explored through various materials, whether in contrasting metals, the brilliant sparkle of black and white diamonds, or the smooth, reflective quality of enamel. The result is jewellery that is both classic in its colour scheme and boldly futuristic in its execution.
At the heart of the Op-Coding theme are geometric patterns, pixelated effects, and sharp, dramatic contrasts that create a sense of movement and depth. Imagine intricate mosaics of white diamonds artfully placed on a canvas of black enamel, meticulously designed to create compelling digital-inspired patterns. These designs often play with positive and negative space, creating optical illusions that draw the eye and challenge perception. Silhouettes in this trend are kept minimal and remarkably simple, allowing the complex patterns and stark contrasts to take centre stage. There is a distinct futuristic edge to these pieces, suggesting a convergence of digital aesthetics with timeless design principles. Op-Coding appeals to those who appreciate precision, modern artistry, and a bold, graphic statement. It’s jewellery that feels both intellectually stimulating and visually captivating, perfect for the contemporary individual who values sleek design and artistic innovation.
6. Constellation Collective: Cosmic Dreams and Celestial Sparkle
The “Constellation Collective” trend lifts our gaze to the heavens, capturing the boundless wonder of the cosmos in exquisite jewellery designs. The influence of space and celestial themes has been undeniably prominent across major global fashion weeks, gracing the runways of iconic designer brands from the ethereal elegance of Alberta Ferretti to the edgy modernity of Alexander Wang and the sophisticated allure of Givenchy. This widespread endorsement underscores the trend’s significant impact and broad appeal. In jewellery, this translates into a galaxy of motifs: sparkling stars, crescent moons, distant planets, whimsical flying saucers, and intricate constellations, all meticulously captured and brought to life.
The brilliance of the Constellation Collective lies in its dazzling array of diamonds, especially fancy-cut and uniquely shaped stones that mimic the varying forms of celestial bodies. Diamonds are not merely accents; they are the stars of the show, embodying the light and magic of the universe. In this trend, metals often take a secondary, supporting role, existing primarily to elegantly prop up and enhance the sparkle of the diamonds. Consequently, we expect to see simpler, highly-polished settings that allow the gemstones to command full attention. These minimalist settings are designed to maximise the brilliance and fire of each diamond, making them feel like genuine fragments of starlight. The Constellation Collective is about creating heirloom treasures – pieces that are not only beautiful but also carry a sense of wonder and cosmic significance, destined to be cherished for generations. It appeals to dreamers, stargazers, and anyone captivated by the infinite beauty of the universe, offering a way to wear a piece of the cosmos close to their heart.
Embracing the SS19 Jewellery Landscape
The Spring/Summer 2019 jewellery trends, as expertly curated by Paola de Luca for International Jewellery London, paint a vivid and diverse picture of the season ahead. From the sleek, minimalist appeal of “Industrial Core” to the whimsical artistry of “I’m Perfection,” the timeless reimagining of pearls in “Neo Classic,” the enigmatic allure of “Dark Romantic,” the graphic precision of “Op-Coding,” and the celestial magic of “Constellation Collective,” these themes offer a rich tapestry of design possibilities. They collectively highlight a dynamic industry that continually evolves, balancing tradition with innovation, and addressing a wide spectrum of consumer desires, from ethical consciousness to individualistic expression and a longing for enchantment.
For jewellery designers, these trends provide a powerful springboard for creativity, encouraging experimentation with materials, forms, and narratives. For retailers, they offer crucial insights into merchandising strategies, allowing them to curate collections that resonate deeply with consumer preferences and stay ahead of the curve. Ultimately, these SS19 trends are more than just aesthetic directives; they are reflections of broader cultural conversations, inviting us to adorn ourselves with pieces that tell a story, evoke emotion, and celebrate the artistry of jewellery making. The insights from IJL and Paola de Luca serve as an indispensable guide for anyone looking to navigate and thrive within the exciting world of contemporary jewellery.
News Source: professionaljeweller.com