Bonhams London Fine Jewelry Auction: A Dazzling Showcase of Art Deco Emeralds and Historic Diamonds
Anticipation mounted for one of the most prestigious events in the world of luxury collectibles as Bonhams prepared for its first London Fine Jewelry sale of 2018. Heralded with the evocative phrase, “Spectacular Art Deco Emeralds and Magnificent Diamonds,” the auction house teased a collection that promised to captivate connoisseurs and collectors alike. Set to take place on April 25, the sale was poised to feature an array of exquisite jewels, with particular emphasis on pieces that seamlessly blended historical provenance with unparalleled craftsmanship and significant gemology.
The headline act of this eagerly awaited auction centered on a remarkable trio of Art Deco jewels crafted by Hennell, a name synonymous with British jewellery excellence. For centuries, Hennell stood as one of Britain’s most ancient and revered jewellers, a testament to enduring quality and design, until its closure in 2001. By the 20th century, Hennell had achieved the pinnacle of its acclaim, rightly earning the esteemed title of “the British jeweller.”
The Enduring Legacy of Hennell: Britain’s Premier Jeweller
Hennell’s reputation was built on an unwavering commitment to superlative quality and an exceptional eye for design. Their client roster was a veritable “crème de la crème” of society, reflecting the brand’s elite status. This illustrious clientele included prominent members of the British aristocracy and landed gentry, alongside Indian maharajas, influential American billionaires, and European royalty. During the vibrant and innovative Art Deco period, Hennell distinguished itself by offering its discerning patrons jewels that not only met but rivaled the exquisite standards set by the finest French jewellery houses, which were often considered the global benchmark for luxury.
The three extraordinary Hennell creations slated for auction hailed from the private collection of Louise Stephens, the wife of Michael Stephens. The Stephens family name carries its own unique legacy, deeply rooted in British industrial history through the renowned Stephens Ink company. Michael Stephens was a scion of this illustrious family, which had amassed a considerable fortune through an invention that revolutionized daily life.
A Storied Provenance: The Stephens Ink Family Collection
The foundation of the Stephens family’s wealth dates back to 1832 when Michael’s grandfather, Dr. Henry Stephens, made a groundbreaking discovery: an indelible “blue-black writing fluid.” This innovative ink dramatically transformed office life and paved the way for the family’s substantial fortune. The acquisition of Hennell jewels by such a family underscores the brand’s appeal to those who appreciated both heritage and exceptional craftsmanship. The Stephens collection offered a rare glimpse into the private tastes of a family with deep historical connections and significant wealth, adding an extra layer of intrigue and desirability to these already magnificent pieces.
Spotlight on Hennell’s Masterpieces: Gems of Art Deco Elegance
Each of the three Hennell pieces from the Stephens collection presented a distinct facet of Art Deco brilliance, showcasing the era’s innovative spirit and the jeweler’s masterful execution.
The Emerald and Diamond Pendant/Necklace: A Symphony of Green and Sparkle
The most impressive of the trio, and the first to grace the auction block, was an exquisite Emerald and Diamond Pendant/Necklace by Hennell, dating from the early 20th century. This breathtaking piece was estimated to fetch between £150,000 and £200,000. Its design prominently featured two magnificent Colombian emeralds, celebrated for their vibrant color and clarity. The primary emerald was a double-sided cabochon crescent, weighing an impressive 12.13 carats, its smooth, polished surface accentuating its rich green hue. Complementing this, a pear-shaped emerald drop, weighing 6.23 carats, added a delicate yet striking element. These emeralds were beautifully accompanied by a prominent marquise-cut diamond, weighing 2.47 carats, distinguished by its E color and VS2 clarity, and notably classified as a rare Type IIa diamond—a classification reserved for the purest of diamonds. Further enhancing the piece were graduating old brilliant-cut diamonds and two smaller marquise-cut diamonds, bringing the total diamond weight to a substantial 15.95 carats. This pendant/necklace epitomized the Art Deco blend of classical elegance with modernist design, featuring bold forms and exceptional gemstones.
The Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Dress Ring: Geometric Precision and Exquisite Craftsmanship
The second jewel from the Stephens collection was an Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Dress Ring by Hennell, circa 1930, with an estimated value ranging from £150,000 to £250,000. At its heart lay a magnificent 9.28-carat Colombian emerald, meticulously cut as a polished sugarloaf cabochon. This distinctive cut, characterized by its domed top and four facets meeting at a point, allowed the emerald’s rich green color to radiate with remarkable intensity, with only minor clarity enhancement by oil, a common and accepted treatment for emeralds. The striking central gem was masterfully offset by the ring’s refined gallery and shoulders, which showcased an elegant jigsaw of precisely cut diamonds. Trapezoid, baguette, tapered baguette, and square-cut diamonds were intricately set, creating a dynamic and sophisticated geometric pattern. This thoughtful combination of various cuts and setting styles was, at the time, considered the epitome of sophisticated modern jewelry design, reflecting the Art Deco period’s embrace of innovation and geometric harmony.
The Diamond Clip Brooch: A Radiant Statement Piece of the 1930s
Concluding the Hennell collection was a dazzling Diamond Clip Brooch, also dating from circa 1930. Estimated at £100,000 to £150,000, this brooch was a celebration of pure diamond brilliance. It consisted of an estimated 40.15 carats of old-cut diamonds, meticulously arranged to create an impressive visual spectacle. Elegant in its design, the brooch featured a double tier of cushion-shaped and old brilliant-cut diamonds, culminating in a magnificent pear-shaped diamond weighing 7.49 carats, strategically placed at its center. Clip brooches were particularly fashionable during the Art Deco era, offering versatility in wear – they could adorn lapels, hats, or even be worn in pairs, transforming into hair ornaments or dress embellishments. This piece, with its substantial diamond weight and classic design, was a quintessential representation of luxury and style from the period.
The “Mughal Empire” Influence: A Cross-Cultural Tapestry in Jewelry Design
Emily Barber, Director of Bonhams Jewelry, UK, offered insightful commentary on the profound historical and artistic significance of these pieces. She highlighted that the emeralds featured in the Hennell jewels were not only superlative examples of Colombian origin but also perfectly embodied the prevailing vogue for “Mughal Empire” style jewelry during the early 20th century. At this fascinating juncture in design history, European jewelers frequently drew inspiration from the traditional jewels of the Indian subcontinent. This influence manifested in the incorporation of large, top-quality polished—as opposed to strictly faceted—gems into their modern platinum creations, creating a unique fusion of Eastern aesthetics and Western craftsmanship. The preference for polished gems echoed the ancient traditions of Indian jewelry, where the natural beauty and color of gemstones were often celebrated through softer, more organic cuts.
Beyond Hennell: Other Exceptional Jewels on Offer
While the Hennell collection formed a cornerstone of the sale, Bonhams also presented other noteworthy pieces that continued the theme of Art Deco grandeur and global inspiration.
Cartier’s Homage to India: An Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Bracelet
Among these was a striking Cartier Art Deco Emerald and Diamond bracelet, circa 1930, estimated between £80,000 and £120,000. This piece was affectionately dubbed “Cartier’s homage to India” during the first part of the 20th century. The vogue for Indian-inspired jewelry resonated particularly strongly in England, driven by Britain’s imperial interests and deep connections with the subcontinent. Cartier, with its astute understanding of market trends and cultural influences, strategically made its London branch the central hub for all matters connected with India. This included nurturing relationships with visiting maharajas who frequently brought their invaluable historic family gems to be re-set into fashionable modern European jewels. Simultaneously, Cartier’s London office was instrumental in sourcing exquisite gems directly from India, which were then integrated into the Indian-inspired jewels purchased by their discerning European clientele. This bracelet exemplified this fascinating cultural exchange, featuring vibrant emerald beads, undoubtedly sourced from India, combined with elegant diamond-set Oriental “fountain” motifs, creating a harmonious blend of Eastern opulence and Western Art Deco sophistication.
The Versatile Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Necklace/Bracelet Combination
Another highlight was an Art Deco Emerald and Diamond Necklace/Bracelet combination, estimated at £150,000 to £250,000. This versatile piece showcased five emeralds at its front, each of optimum color and transparency, and confirmed to be of Colombian origin. Their clarity ranged from minor enhancement to entirely natural, untouched by enhancement processes, underscoring their exceptional quality. The ability of such a piece to transform from a necklace to a bracelet speaks to the innovative and practical design philosophies prevalent during the Art Deco period, where adaptability and multifunctionality were highly prized.
The Enduring Allure of Diamonds: Essential to Any Fine Jewelry Sale
As Bonhams eloquently stated, “No Fine Jewelry sale at Bonhams would be complete without diamonds.” This sentiment underscored the timeless appeal and intrinsic value of these precious stones. Beyond the aforementioned pieces, the sale also featured three additional notable diamond creations, further solidifying the auction’s impressive breadth and depth. Diamonds, with their unparalleled brilliance and enduring status as symbols of luxury and affection, consistently command significant attention and high bids at such prestigious auctions.
Iconic Houses and Unforgettable Pieces: A Collector’s Dream
The auction was not solely dedicated to Art Deco masterpieces and historic provenances; it also served as a platform for celebrated contemporary and classic designs from other iconic jewelry houses. Collectors had the opportunity to bid on signed jewels from illustrious brands such as Van Cleef & Arpels, known for its whimsical and intricate designs; Bulgari, with its bold Roman-inspired creations; other timeless pieces from Cartier; and the sophisticated elegance of Tiffany & Co. The inclusion of these renowned names ensured that the sale offered a comprehensive selection appealing to a wide array of tastes and collecting interests, from vintage to modern classics.
The Significance of the Bonhams Fine Jewelry Sale
The Bonhams London Fine Jewelry sale of 2018, with its “Spectacular Art Deco Emeralds and Magnificent Diamonds,” represented more than just an auction; it was a celebration of artistry, history, and unparalleled craftsmanship. The collection, particularly the Hennell pieces from the Stephens Ink family, offered a unique blend of historical significance, rare provenance, and exquisite design, embodying the very essence of collectible luxury. For enthusiasts, historians, and investors alike, such events provide a rare opportunity to acquire pieces that are not merely adornments but tangible links to a rich and glittering past, continuing the legacy of beauty and prestige for generations to come. The sale underscored Bonhams’ commitment to bringing exceptional jewels to the global market, solidifying its position as a leading authority in fine jewelry auctions.
Pic Cap:
The emerald and diamond pendant/necklace, by Hennell, dating from first quarter of the 20th century
Pic Courtesy: Bonhams