THE DESIGNER VIVARIUM AT GEMGENÈVE 2022: A Global Showcase of Contemporary Jewellery Innovation
GemGenève, the premier international jewellery and gemstone fair, is thrilled to announce the highly anticipated return of The Designer Vivarium for its 2022 edition. Curated with exquisite precision by renowned jewellery historian Vivienne Becker, this unique exhibition stands as a beacon for individual, independent, and innovative designer jewellers from across the globe. Set to dazzle attendees this May, The Designer Vivarium 2022 will present the exceptional creations of seven visionary artists, featuring three beloved returning designers alongside four captivating new international names. This year’s unifying theme, “The Classics Contemporised,” promises a fascinating exploration of how age-old aesthetic principles and cultural narratives can be reimagined for the modern era, pushing the boundaries of what jewellery can be.
Vivienne Becker’s Vision: Unearthing Jewellery’s Future Through its Past
GENEVA, 29 MARCH, 2022 – At the heart of The Designer Vivarium’s enduring success lies the unparalleled expertise and discerning eye of Vivienne Becker. Aided by Ida Faerber, Becker embarked on a meticulous global quest, tirelessly scouting for independent, often “under-the-radar” designers whose work resonates with a profound artistic integrity. Her selection criteria are stringent yet expansive: each chosen designer must demonstrate a strong conceptual foundation, a well-defined design direction, an individualistic point of view, and an undeniable sophistication in both craftsmanship and the innovative use of materials. As a distinguished historian, Becker holds a particular appreciation for designs that gracefully acknowledge and respectfully draw upon the rich, long-standing history of the jewel, its intrinsic rituals, and deep-seated traditions. Yet, simultaneously, she champions those who bravely challenge conventional perceptions regarding the role and meaning of jewellery in contemporary society. The styles represented in the 2022 Designer Vivarium are, as always, remarkably diverse, reflecting the immense breadth, profound depth, and versatile expressiveness that defines today’s vibrant world of contemporary jewellery art. This curated collection is not merely an exhibition; it is a narrative, inviting visitors to witness the dialogue between heritage and innovation, between established forms and avant-garde interpretations.
The Genesis of the Vivarium: Nurturing Talent at GemGenève
The innovative concept for a dedicated contemporary designer showcase originated from the visionary founders of GemGenève, Thomas Faerber and Ronny Totah. From the very inception of the show, a core tenet of their mission has been to actively promote and nurture talent, ingenuity, and artistic courage within the dynamic jewellery world. They recognised the critical need to provide a voice and a robust platform for individual designers—the true innovators who relentlessly push creative boundaries, challenge entrenched conventions, and artfully subvert traditions. Their aim is to ensure that the millennia-old art of the jewel remains dynamic, exciting, and perpetually relevant, thereby capturing the spirit of our current moment for future generations of discerning jewellery collectors and connoisseurs. This commitment to fostering groundbreaking design is what makes The Designer Vivarium an indispensable part of the GemGenève experience, distinguishing it as a hub where tradition meets the audacious spirit of modern artistry.
An Immersive Experience: Connecting with Creativity
This year marks the fourth edition of The Designer Vivarium, and consistent with previous years, visitors are offered an unparalleled opportunity to delve deeper into the creative process. The Vivarium provides a unique and intimate setting where guests can meet the designers in person, engage in meaningful conversations about their creative visions, understand their artistic philosophies, and appreciate the intricate craftsmanship behind each piece. This direct interaction fosters a stimulating sense of discovery and an enriching exchange of ideas—an ethos that is deeply embedded in the very character of GemGenève. It transforms the viewing experience from passive observation to an active immersion, allowing attendees to connect with the passion, dedication, and stories that infuse every contemporary jewel. This direct engagement is crucial for anyone keen to explore the cutting edge of jewellery design and gain insight into the minds shaping its future.
Meet the Visionaries: The Seven Independent Designers of 2022
The 2022 Designer Vivarium proudly presents an eclectic group of seven international designers, each bringing a distinctive voice and perspective to the world of contemporary jewellery. This year’s cohort includes both celebrated returning artists and exciting new talents, promising a diverse and captivating display of innovation and craftsmanship.
- Aline Debusigne, Switzerland (Returning)
- Sean Gilson, USA (Returning)
- Regina Gambatesa, Italy (Returning)
- Saurabh Bhola, India (New)
- Oktaaf, Spain (New)
- Gaelle Khouri, Lebanon (New)
- Philippe Lauras, France (New)
Aline Debusigne, Switzerland: The Architect of Light and Form
Returning to the Vivarium, Basel-based Aline Debusigne brings her profound passion for history and ancient craftsmanship to life in exquisitely contemporary forms. Her academic background in ancient history and philology deeply informs her jewellery practice, which she established in 2018. Aline’s designs are resolutely contemporary, characterised by their ingeniously conceived architectural structure, meticulously considered balance, and harmonious proportions. Each piece is hand-crafted in Geneva and Paris, utilising traditional techniques to achieve a distinctive aesthetic. Her signature style is a masterful marriage of modernity and antiquity, often expressed through her inventive use of old-cut diamonds. These diamonds, in a variety of shapes, are frequently scattered in seemingly random patterns within near-invisible settings, creating a mesmerising, shimmering play of light. She also opts for natural white gold, eschewing rhodium plating to allow the metal’s inherent beauty to shine. Aline places a strong emphasis on sculptural, ergonomic shapes, designing jewels that move fluidly with the body, like a second skin, thus balancing ornamental beauty with supreme wearability. She encapsulates the core characteristics of her distinctive style as: light, abstraction, movement, body-fitting, and unequivocally contemporary, offering pieces that are both visually striking and intimately personal.
Sean Gilson, USA: The Art-Infused Goldsmith
Sean Gilson, an American artist-goldsmith, returns with his signature powerful and art-infused creations. Each of his jewels is meticulously hand-crafted by Gilson himself, either in his workshop in Connecticut or his atelier in New York City. His artistic journey began with studies in fine art before he honed his skills as a goldsmith under the tutelage of renowned European and American metalsmiths. This dual background imbues his work with a graphic, modernist approach to shape, form, and material. Gilson is celebrated for his ability to forge gold into potent, geometric shapes, which he then burnishes to achieve a rich, warm finish reminiscent of ancient gold work, imbuing each piece with a timeless aura. He demonstrates exceptional versatility in his use of pearls, incorporating different species—natural, Akoya, South Sea, and baroque—to create dynamic structures that highlight their unique shapes and lustres. Furthermore, Gilson pioneers fresh combinations, such as mixing sustainable coral with lustrous black Tahitian pearls, to introduce entirely new palettes of colour, sheen, and shine. At this year’s Designer Vivarium, Sean Gilson will unveil a captivating series of new jewels, further showcasing his innovative spirit and masterful command of materials.
Regina Gambatesa, Italy: Jewellery as Ritual and Emotion
Regina Gambatesa, another returning luminary, brings a deeply conceptual and spiritual dimension to the Designer Vivarium. After completing her architectural studies at the University of Naples, Regina relocated to Bari, in Italy’s Puglia region, where she began crafting her highly conceptual jewels in 1986. She conceives of her creations not merely as ornaments, but as “ritual objects to bring you closer to your interior,” underscoring their profound spiritual purpose. In 1999, Regina established her experimental exhibition space, where she showcases her diverse collections and unique one-of-a-kind creations. These pieces range from organic and fluid forms to precise geometric structures, all designed with the overarching aim of stimulating a new dialogue around the meaning and inherent power of the jewel. She masterfully works with light and luminous materials to convey and perpetuate the deep mysticism and spirituality that have long been associated with jewellery across cultures. Through her distinctively architectural and philosophical jewels, Regina Gambatesa explores the intricate relationship between the body and ornament, seamlessly fusing deep-rooted cultural references and associations with elements of fantasy and imagination. Her work is a powerful exploration of the jewel’s capacity for communication, finding innovative ways for these ancient objects to tell their age-old stories, to revive the energy of the talisman, and, most importantly, to evoke a profound emotional response deep within the unconscious mind of the wearer.
Saurabh Bhola, India: Metamorphosis of Heritage
Making his debut at the Designer Vivarium, Saurabh Bhola, based in Delhi, India, brings a compelling narrative of heritage reimagined. His journey in jewellery design began at the prestigious Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York, where he studied under the esteemed Maurice Galli, former head of the creative team at Harry Winston. Upon earning his degree, Bhola was selected by a panel from Tiffany & Co. to participate in their innovative “Workshop Without Walls.” He initially designed for Tiffany but soon returned to India to support his family’s traditional jewellery business. This period required him to temporarily set aside his own contemporary design aspirations, focusing instead on traditional Indian jewellery. However, this experience proved to be a catalyst: he found immense inspiration in the antique gemstones, passed down through generations, that came through his hands. These stones, imbued with rich history and a powerful presence, reignited his imagination and solidified his determination to forge his own distinctive contemporary style. In 2018, a serendipitous encounter with a historic Navratna bracelet of royal provenance provided the spark he needed to embark on his groundbreaking first collection, “Metamorphosis.” In this collection, the antique stones from the bracelet were given a vibrant new life within organic, sculptural settings, paying homage to the ever-changing natural world and the rapidly evolving contemporary landscape. The collection garnered him the prestigious Award for Centurion Emerging Designer of 2020. Saurabh Bhola’s unwavering commitment to individuality means all his jewels are one-of-a-kind, each a testament to his unique vision.
Oktaaf, Spain: Antiquity in the Metaverse Age
Oktaaf, a remarkably young brand born in the metaverse, makes its exciting debut, representing a truly innovative dialogue between antiquity and modernity. This visionary brand is the brainchild of Ainoa Casullas Corres, a Spanish jewellery designer, and Karel de Beule, a Belgian internet entrepreneur. Oktaaf jewellery explores the oldest, earliest roles of the jewel through the lens of contemporary design. Each Oktaaf jewel is conceptually built around an ancient artefact. However, de Beule emphatically stresses that they do not merely “envelop” an antique object; instead, they meticulously set each artefact within an entirely new context, imbuing it with fresh meaning and profound relevance for today. Their work tells the story of these artefacts from a compelling anthropological point of view, fundamentally highlighting the jewel’s age-old role as an expression of personal or tribal identity—a powerful personal or social style signifier. In Oktaaf’s groundbreaking jewellery, a Mesopotamian glyph seal, dating back 7000 years, is ingeniously related to a modern hashtag, its graphic impression strikingly set into a contemporary cocktail ring. Similarly, ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs are playfully reinterpreted as today’s emojis, bridging vast historical divides with a touch of modern wit. As a true child of its time, Oktaaf also pushes the technological boundaries of design, notably presenting a pair of cufflinks designed entirely by Artificial Intelligence, showcasing the brand’s commitment to innovation. Above all, the founders assert, each Oktaaf jewel serves as a potent emblem of “timeless humanity,” connecting wearers to a shared past while firmly anchoring them in the future.
Gaelle Khouri, Lebanon: Philosophical Contemplations in Jewellery
From Beirut, Gaelle Khouri makes her debut at the Designer Vivarium, showcasing a journey from economic studies to profound philosophical jewellery design. Born into a family of academics, Gaelle initially pursued a career in economics, leaving Lebanon for New York City at the age of 20. However, her inherent love for design and an undeniable desire to work in a creative industry ultimately rerouted her path. She gained invaluable experience working with fashion luminaries like Oscar de la Renta and Lebanese designer Elie Saab. Upon returning to Beirut, armed with newfound confidence and a clearer vision, she immersed herself in jewellery studies, preparing to embark on her true calling. Celebrating her fifth year as a designer jeweller, Gaelle proudly presents her new 2022 collection, “La Trahison de l’Objet,” at the Designer Vivarium. This collection is deeply conceptual and cerebral, contemplating the intricate philosophical ideas that profoundly fascinate Gaelle Khouri and consistently guide her artistic work. Through these evocative jewels, she meticulously examines concepts of beauty and our complex relationship to the objects that inhabit the world around us. The collection draws its inspiration from two distinct branches of philosophical thought: Empiricism and Innatism, each exploring the fundamental nature of beauty, our differing perceptions, ideals, and judgements. As always, in her signature dreamy and sculptural jewels, Gaelle Khouri masterfully connects the intense physicality and tangibility of the jewel to the intangible and profound realm of human thought, creating pieces that are both beautiful adornments and intellectual provocations.
Philippe Lauras, France: The Art of the Fluid Ribbon
Philippe Lauras, hailing from France, brings a legacy of meticulous craftsmanship and an innate artistic sensibility to the Designer Vivarium for the first time with his own collection. Growing up in an artistic environment, Philippe instinctively knew he was destined for a creative path. He enrolled in the esteemed Ecole de Joaillerie de Paris (BJOP), simultaneously dedicating himself to studies in gemology, drawing, and sculptural modelling. His professional journey began in 1980, and he was fortunate to train in two of Paris’s most renowned High Jewellery ateliers. There, he mastered traditional jewellery-making techniques, which demand absolute dedication, immense patience, rigorous precision, and an unwavering commitment to excellence. Over the years, Lauras acquired the comprehensive technical and artistic know-how necessary to collaborate with leading designer-jewellers and artistic directors of major international jewellery houses. In 1995, he established his own workshop near Paris, where he created exquisite one-of-a-kind jewels for prominent Parisian jewellery Maisons. Most recently, he launched his own highly anticipated collection, which he proudly presents here. The “Falbala” collection, he explains, originated from the simple, elegant inspiration of a ribbon—sometimes tied gracefully around a finger, or delicately looped into an earring to frame the face. Each jewel in this collection is entirely hand-crafted, a testament to his artisanal skill, aimed at capturing the floating, flirtatious silkiness and inherent grace of a ribbon. Lauras meticulously focuses on achieving a perfect balance and fluid movement in curves and swirls, which are often assiduously asymmetric. His jewels are designed to be exceptionally light, ensuring supreme comfort for the wearer, and are articulated to create captivating movement, thereby bringing the design dynamically to life.
The 2022 Connecting Theme: The Classics Contemporised
Despite the expansive international scope of this extraordinary group of designers, and their intense individuality of concept and expression, a powerful and overarching theme has organically emerged within this year’s Designer Vivarium: a captivating re-imagining of classicism. This profound theme manifests in diverse and compelling ways across the exhibition. It can be seen, quite literally, in Oktaaf’s insightful celebration and recontextualisation of meaningful objects from classical antiquity, bridging millennia with modern aesthetics. It is evident in Saurabh Bhola’s masterful reworking of organic themes, where natural forms are given a contemporary sculptural interpretation. And it finds exquisite expression in Philippe Lauras’s rejuvenating take on the ribbon and ribbon bow—a motif that stands as one of the most lyrical, versatile, and ubiquitous classic themes throughout the vast history of jewellery. The Designer Vivarium 2022, therefore, transforms into more than just an exhibition; it becomes a veritable “Cabinet of Wondrously Contemporary Classicism,” inviting visitors to explore how timeless beauty and historical narratives are not merely preserved, but vibrantly reinterpreted and brought to life for a new generation.
A Legacy of Innovation and Beauty
The Designer Vivarium at GemGenève 2022 stands as a testament to the enduring power of creativity and the relentless pursuit of innovation within the jewellery world. Through the expert curation of Vivienne Becker and the visionary support of GemGenève founders, this platform not only showcases exceptional talent but also actively shapes the discourse around contemporary jewellery. Each designer, with their unique background and distinctive approach, contributes to a rich tapestry that celebrates both heritage and modernity, making the “Classics Contemporised” theme truly resonate. Visitors are invited to experience this extraordinary collection, engage with the artists, and witness firsthand how independent designers are pushing the boundaries of art and craftsmanship. The Vivarium is more than an exhibition; it is an inspiration, offering a glimpse into the future of jewellery while honouring its illustrious past. Join us to discover the next generation of iconic designs and the profound stories they tell.