The Artisan Awards stand as a beacon celebrating the pinnacle of artistic expression, creative ingenuity, and ground-breaking innovation within the world of jewellery design. These prestigious awards honour extraordinary talent and push the boundaries of craftsmanship, establishing new benchmarks for excellence in the industry.
In 2019, the Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) magnificently brought together the finest design minds in the Indian gems and jewellery industry for its Artisan Awards. Under the captivating theme of ‘Enchanted Cosmos’, the event was a stellar showcase of imagination, technical skill, and a deep understanding of the mysteries of the universe, translated into wearable art.
The Royal Opera House in south Mumbai, a venue renowned for its grandeur and historical significance, recently played host to an unforgettable evening as the brightest stars of designer jewellery converged. This opulent setting provided the perfect backdrop for the GJEPC Artisan Jewellery Design Awards 2019, which was proudly powered by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and co-partnered by the Diamond Producers Association (DPA). This collaboration underscored the global recognition and industry-wide support for nurturing design talent within India.
More than just an awards ceremony, the Artisan Awards serve as a crucial platform for both established and emerging designers, providing an unparalleled opportunity to exhibit their innovative concepts and collaborate with some of India’s most esteemed manufacturers. This unique synergy fosters an environment where diverse creative minds can converge, engage in spirited discussions, and deliberate on the future trajectory of jewellery design. It is a melting pot of ideas, where traditional artistry meets contemporary vision, propelling the Indian jewellery industry onto the global stage with renewed vigour.
Pramod Kumar Agrawal, the esteemed chairman of GJEPC, articulated the profound historical roots and significant economic contributions of the Indian gem and jewellery industry. “The Indian gem and jewellery industry boasts a rich legacy spanning over 5,000 years,” he remarked, emphasizing the nation’s enduring heritage. “For millennia, India has been blessed with an unmatched advantage of highly skilled artisans and karigars, enabling us to cater to discerning global markets with unparalleled craftsmanship and intricate designs.”
Agrawal further highlighted the industry’s crucial role in India’s modern economy, stating, “Today, our total gem and jewellery exports annually contribute an impressive $42 billion. The industry is a vital engine of growth, contributing around seven per cent to India’s Gross Domestic Product (GDP) and providing employment to over five million individuals across various segments. This pivotal moment calls for global recognition of India’s immense jewellery design potential. It is time for the world to acknowledge India not just as a manufacturing hub, but as a pre-eminent ‘design destination’ for exquisite jewellery. The Artisan Awards are more than just an event; they represent a dedicated initiative and a sincere, concerted effort to foster and encourage authentic design talent within the industry, thereby showcasing India’s magnificent design extravagance to the entire world.” His words resonated with a sense of national pride and a forward-looking vision for India’s creative future in the global jewellery landscape.
Celebrating Visionary Winners: A Showcase of Brilliance
The grand finale of the Artisan Awards 2019 was graced by the presence of renowned actress Aditi Rao Hydari, adding a touch of glamour to an already sparkling evening. The culmination of months of meticulous work, the event saw the triumphant declaration of winners selected from an astounding pool of over 550 initial entries. From these numerous submissions, a discerning panel of judges had meticulously shortlisted 23 exceptional sketches, each representing a unique vision and profound artistic promise. These finalists were then tasked with the challenging yet rewarding endeavour of bringing their designs to life, transforming conceptual sketches into tangible, magnificent pieces of jewellery. This second round of judging was even more rigorous, with pieces evaluated against a comprehensive set of parameters. These criteria included the fundamental design aesthetics, the practicality and wearability of the pieces, their innovative elements, relevance to the enchanting ‘Enchanted Cosmos’ theme, and crucially, their makeability and manufacturing feasibility. Aditi Rao Hydari expressed her profound admiration, stating, “I am truly in awe of the breathtaking jewellery designs presented at the Artisan Awards 2019. I wholeheartedly applaud GJEPC for orchestrating such a brilliant and impactful initiative. It not only provides invaluable encouragement to our exceptionally talented jewellery designers but also magnificently brings forth our country’s immense jewellery designing prowess onto the global stage, showcasing it for the entire world to admire.” Her remarks underscored the profound impact of the awards in elevating India’s design stature internationally.
Colin Shah, the dynamic vice-chairman of GJEPC, eloquently spoke about India’s resurgence in the global jewellery design arena. He drew parallels to a glorious past, stating, “The importance of India in the global jewellery design context is experiencing a powerful resurgence, harkening back to its historical prominence. There was a time when Indian influence on luxury jewellery was undeniably evident in the iconic creations of revered houses such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Harry Winston, crafted for the Maharajas and Nawabs, showcasing an era of unparalleled grandeur and exquisite craftsmanship.” Shah highlighted the prescience of the GJEPC in selecting the theme, noting, “Incidentally, GJEPC astutely chose the theme of ‘Enchanted Cosmos’ even before it emerged as a significant design theme for the buying season of 2020, demonstrating our foresight in trend identification. We were absolutely overwhelmed to receive an astounding 550 entries from across India, each interpretation more unique than the last. This theme proved exceptionally fertile, enabling designers to delve deep into the mysteries of galaxies, nebulas, and universes, both known and unknown, translating celestial beauty into breathtaking jewellery pieces.” This profound engagement with the theme underscored the creative depth and imaginative spirit of Indian designers.
The awards recognized outstanding talent across several key categories. In the highly competitive Rings/Pendant category, Mehul Gupta emerged victorious, with her exquisite piece expertly manufactured by Jewel Goldi, showcasing a harmonious blend of innovative design and superior craftsmanship. Koushik Mondal, representing Tanvir Kumar & Co., secured the commendable position of first runner-up, demonstrating exceptional skill, while Deepika Pathya from Titan Company Ltd. was recognized as the second runner-up, further highlighting the diverse talent pool. These awards not only celebrated individual prowess but also the collaborative spirit between designers and manufacturers.
The Brooches/Pins category saw Mitali Kikani of H. Ajoomal Fine Jewellery claim the coveted winning position, her design capturing the essence of elegance and innovation. She was closely followed by Aashna Chaudhary from Titan Company Ltd., who was awarded the first runner-up, and Jayshree Tupe of A’Star Jewellery, who secured the second runner-up, all demonstrating mastery in transforming intricate concepts into wearable art. Each piece reflected the designer’s unique interpretation of the theme, adding a distinct flavour to the collection.
In the captivating Earring/Bracelets category, Soukata Basu Malhotra took home the first position, with her stunning piece brought to life by the renowned ace jewellery designer Anand Shah, a testament to collaborative excellence. Soumayajit Maity of Priority Jewels Pvt Ltd. was celebrated as the first runner-up, displaying remarkable talent. Meanwhile, Yash Pandey of IIGJ Delhi, whose innovative design was also expertly manufactured by Anand Shah, earned the distinction of second runner-up. These wins underscored the breadth of talent emerging from various institutions and independent studios.
Further broadening the scope of recognition, GJEPC introduced an additional and significant category: ‘Best Product Inventory at Signature IIJS 2019’. This award was designed to acknowledge excellence in product development and market readiness, featuring a comprehensive range of sub-categories to encompass the vast diversity of Indian jewellery. The inclusion of this category emphasized the GJEPC’s commitment to promoting both artistic design and commercial viability, acknowledging the full spectrum of the industry’s contributions.
The ‘Best Product Inventory at Signature IIJS 2019’ awards featured eight distinct sub-categories, recognizing excellence across the board:
- Daily-wear Diamond Jewellery: Shree Fine Jewels Pvt Ltd (Winner), Zunda (first runner-up), and Sphere (second runner-up). These pieces showcased how diamonds could be integrated into everyday elegance with contemporary flair.
- Couture Diamond Jewellery: Tibarumal (Winner), Manak Diamonds (first runner-up), Splurge (second runner-up). This category celebrated high-fashion, elaborate diamond pieces that define luxury.
- Gold Jewellery: Sawansukha Jewellers (Winner), Gold Artism (first runner-up). Honoring the timeless allure and intricate craftsmanship of gold.
- Silver Jewellery: RK Silver & Gold (Winner). Recognizing innovative and elegant designs in silver.
- Platinum: Pure Platinum (Winner). Celebrating the purity and modern appeal of platinum creations.
- Coloured Gemstones Jewellery: Tara Fine Jewels (Winner), Sanskriti Jewels (first runner-up), Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas (second runner-up). This category highlighted the vibrant artistry of designs featuring an array of precious and semi-precious coloured gemstones.
- Kundan Meena Jewellery: VM Ornaments (Winner), Vasupati Jewellers India Pvt. Ltd. (first runner-up). Paying homage to the intricate and traditional Indian art form of Kundan Meena.
- Pearl Jewellery: Manoj Ornaments (Winner). Recognizing the classic elegance and modern interpretations of pearl designs.
Shaping the Future: Insights into Jewellery Trends
In its relentless pursuit to foster innovation in jewellery designing and firmly establish India’s stature as a preeminent global design hub, GJEPC embarked on another pioneering initiative: the commissioning of a comprehensive trend book titled AATMAN – Inspirations 2020. This seminal publication was meticulously curated and developed by The Futurist’s team, under the expert guidance of renowned international jewellery forecaster Paola De Luca. The much-anticipated launch of this invaluable resource took place during the Artisan Awards ceremony, signaling a significant step towards guiding the industry’s creative direction. The AATMAN book serves as a critical compass for designers and manufacturers, providing strategic insights into upcoming trends, consumer preferences, and market dynamics, thereby enabling them to innovate with foresight and precision.
Milan Chokshi, the convener for promotions & marketing at the GJEPC, underscored the profound significance of this initiative. “AATMAN – Inspirations 2020 represents a truly significant and forward-thinking initiative by the GJEPC,” he stated with conviction. “I am absolutely confident that this trend book will pave a clear way forward, effectively building bridges towards a new, incredibly vibrant, and exciting future that is brimming with boundless creativity and endless possibilities for the Indian jewellery sector. The book comprehensively covers an expansive spectrum of jewellery trends, meticulously categorized into major segments such as bridal, couture, and pret. It is designed to be an indispensable tool, serving as an ideal guide for both aspiring young designers and established businesses seeking to stay ahead in a rapidly evolving market.” Chokshi’s remarks emphasized the book’s role as a strategic blueprint for innovation and growth.
Paola De Luca, the visionary behind AATMAN, articulated the book’s deeper purpose, highlighting India’s burgeoning influence. “India is powerfully reclaiming its global stature as a leading pioneer and an undeniable force in luxury jewellery design,” De Luca affirmed. “AATMAN – Inspirations 2020 is specifically crafted to ignite and inspire the new generation of Indian creative leaders. It provides an essential blueprint for key design trends, meticulously addresses topical issues and challenges currently affecting the diamond industry, and uniquely presents an richly illustrated history of India’s early, yet enduring, prominence in design. This book is more than a guide; it is a celebration of heritage and a roadmap for future innovation.” Her insights underscored the blend of historical respect and future-oriented vision that the publication embodies.
Beyond the AATMAN trend book, ‘Design Inspirations’ represents another ambitious and ongoing project by GJEPC, conceived with the explicit aim of propelling Indian design talent onto the competitive global stage. This multi-faceted initiative focuses on continuous education and engagement.
‘Design Inspirations’ manifests as a dynamic series of talks and workshops. These events are specifically tailored to educate and empower jewellers, designers, and students alike, offering invaluable insights into the forthcoming trends that are shaping the gems and jewellery sector, not only within India but also across Europe and the United States. The program delves deeply into understanding complex consumer behaviour patterns, exploring their aspirations, desires, and underlying emotions. Crucially, it provides practical guidance on how to effectively translate these abstract human elements into coherent thematic concepts and compelling visual design directions, equipping participants with the tools to create jewellery that resonates deeply with contemporary audiences. Through these concerted efforts, GJEPC is not only celebrating excellence but actively cultivating a future where Indian jewellery design continues to shine brightly on the world’s most prestigious platforms.