The highly anticipated Bonhams London Fine Jewellery Sale, set for September 20, 2017, promised an extraordinary array of some of the world’s most coveted gemstones and designer pieces. Among the 188 lots presented, one item, in particular, stood out as a beacon of rarity and exceptional beauty: a 4.03-carat fancy intense blue diamond. This pear-shaped marvel, boasting an impressive estimated price between £1,200,000 and £1,500,000, had been held in a distinguished UK private collection for over three decades, making its appearance at auction a truly significant event for collectors and connoisseurs worldwide.
The Zenith of Rarity: A Fancy Intense Blue Diamond Takes Center Stage
Blue diamonds are among the rarest and most desirable coloured diamonds in existence, their captivating hues ranging from pale sky blue to deep ocean tones. The “fancy intense” grading bestowed upon this 4.03-carat pear-shaped diamond signifies a remarkable saturation of colour, placing it in an elite category. The diamond’s prolonged private ownership added to its mystique and allure, promising fierce competition among bidders eager to acquire a piece of nature’s artistry. Its estimated value reflects not only its size and clarity but, critically, the exceptional intensity of its blue colour – a characteristic that diamond experts and collectors value above almost all others in the realm of coloured diamonds.
The market for rare coloured diamonds, especially blue diamonds, has seen consistent growth, driven by their scarcity and increasing demand from global investors and private collectors. A diamond of this calibre represents not merely a piece of jewellery but a tangible asset, a masterpiece of geological formation, and a profound investment opportunity. Its presence at the Bonhams sale underscored the auction house’s reputation for sourcing and presenting only the finest examples of haute joaillerie.
An Eclectic Showcase: White Diamonds, Sapphires, and Iconic Designs
Beyond the headline-grabbing blue diamond, the September sale offered a meticulously curated selection that catered to diverse tastes and investment portfolios. The catalogue featured an impressive range of white and coloured diamonds, celebrated sapphires from legendary origins such as Kashmir, Burma, and Sri Lanka, and an exquisite assortment of signed jewellery from world-renowned houses like Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels. Additionally, the auction marked a historic occasion, presenting the largest private collection of jewellery ever to come to auction by the celebrated Anglo-Italian designer, Andrew Grima.
The Allure of the Enigmatic: A Fancy Gray-Blue Diamond Brooch
Among the other potential headline lots was a truly unique and captivating fancy gray-blue diamond brooch, an exquisite example of mid-20th-century craftsmanship and design ingenuity. This remarkable piece featured a central square step-cut diamond weighing an impressive 4.83 carats, its subtle gray-blue hue providing a sophisticated focal point. Flanking this central gem were two equally distinctive step-cut diamonds, a fancy dark brown-greenish yellow weighing 2.51 carats and another at 2.38 carats, creating a harmonious yet striking colour contrast. The brooch was further adorned with a suspended pear-shape fancy pink diamond drop below, weighing 1.90 carats, adding a delicate touch of warmth and femininity. Dating from the mid-20th century, this multi-stone masterpiece carried a pre-sale estimate of £650,000-850,000, reflecting its rarity, complex design, and the collective beauty of its extraordinary diamonds.
The combination of multiple rare coloured diamonds in one piece is a testament to the artistry of its original creator and offers a unique aesthetic appeal. Such pieces are highly sought after by collectors who appreciate not only the individual beauty of each stone but also the overall artistic statement made by their masterful arrangement.
The Legendary Status of the Kashmir Sapphire
Another highlight promising significant collector interest was a single-stone ring featuring a magnificent 9.61-carat Kashmir sapphire. This octagonal step-cut stone was certified with “no indications of heating,” a critical factor that significantly elevates its value and desirability. Kashmir sapphires are revered globally for their unparalleled velvety blue hue, often described as “cornflower blue,” and their exceptional clarity. The mines in the Zanskar range of the Himalayas, which produced these legendary stones, were only operational for a brief period of approximately 30 years from the late 1880s, rendering unheated examples exceedingly rare and historically significant.
The scarcity of these gems, combined with their extraordinary beauty and historical provenance, places them among the most prized gemstones for serious collectors. With a pre-sale estimate of £500,000–700,000, this Kashmir sapphire ring was poised to attract intense bidding, reaffirming the gem’s legendary status in the world of high jewellery.
A Legacy of Craftsmanship: Exquisite Signed Jewellery from Cartier
Bonhams’ sale also presented an opportunity to acquire iconic pieces from one of the most prestigious jewellery houses in the world, Cartier. The selection included remarkable examples that showcased Cartier’s enduring legacy of innovative design and unparalleled craftsmanship.
Timeless Elegance: Art Deco Diamond Clip Brooches by Cartier
Among the featured Cartier lots were a pair of exquisite Art Deco diamond clip brooches, circa 1935, estimated at £40,000-60,000. These pieces perfectly encapsulate the geometric precision, sophisticated elegance, and pioneering spirit of the Art Deco era. Cartier was at the forefront of this revolutionary design movement, creating pieces that were bold, architectural, and highly fashionable. The enduring appeal of vintage Cartier, particularly from the Art Deco period, makes these brooches not just beautiful adornments but significant historical artefacts of jewellery design.
The Verdant Allure: A 1960s Emerald and Diamond Bracelet by Cartier
Another striking Cartier offering was an emerald and diamond bracelet dating from the 1960s. This vibrant piece showcased a series of alternating step and octagonal-cut emeralds, renowned for their intense green colour, elegantly accented on either side by brilliant-cut diamonds. The design reflects Cartier’s evolution through the mid-20th century, combining classic gemstones with a fresh, dynamic arrangement. With a pre-sale estimate of £50,000-70,000, this bracelet presented a chance to own a piece of Cartier’s glamorous history, embodying the chic sophistication of the 1960s.
The Epitome of Purity: A Type IIb White Diamond
For collectors of exceptional white diamonds, the sale offered a single-stone ring featuring an old marquise-cut Type IIb white diamond weighing 4.61 carats. Classified as D colour and VVS2 clarity, with the potential to be flawless, this diamond represented the pinnacle of purity and perfection. Type IIb diamonds are chemically the purest form of diamond, containing negligible amounts of nitrogen, which results in their exceptional transparency and often, their D colour grading. While some Type IIb diamonds are naturally blue due to boron impurities, this particular stone achieved the coveted D colour, indicating a complete absence of colour, making it incredibly rare and valuable. Its estimated price of £80,000-100,000 reflected its outstanding quality, brilliant cut, and rare classification, appealing to those seeking the ultimate in traditional diamond beauty.
Andrew Grima: A Modernist Vision Unveiled Through His Largest Private Collection
Perhaps one of the most historically significant aspects of the Bonhams sale was the unveiling of the largest private collection of jewels by Andrew Grima ever to appear at auction. Grima, a towering figure in 20th-century jewellery design, was celebrated for his revolutionary modernist approach, which challenged traditional conventions and embraced organic forms, textured gold, and often, large, uncut, and unusual gemstone crystals. His work marked a significant departure from the precise, refined styles that preceded him, ushering in an era of bold, artistic expression in jewellery.
The collection, comprising 55 pieces, offered an unprecedented insight into Grima’s prolific career. Highlights included creations from his admired “About Time” watch collection for Omega, which stood out as one of the most innovative and avant-garde watch collections ever made. These watches were not merely timekeeping devices but sculptural works of art, blending functionality with Grima’s distinctive aesthetic. Additionally, the sale featured works from his “Rock Revival” collection, which boldly incorporated raw, unpolished, and uniquely shaped gemstone crystals, celebrating the natural beauty of the earth’s treasures in their most authentic form.
Andrew Grima’s jewellery is highly collectible due to its unique aesthetic, artistic integrity, and his profound influence on modern jewellery design. This extensive private collection presented a rare opportunity for collectors to acquire pieces that encapsulate his pioneering vision and secure a tangible link to a pivotal era in design history.
A Testament to Timeless Beauty and Enduring Value
Reflecting on the significance of the sale, Jean Ghika, Head of Jewellery for Bonhams UK & Europe, underscored the exceptional nature of the featured gems. “Blue diamonds are extremely rare and highly coveted,” Ghika stated, emphasizing their allure. She further elaborated on the historical importance of Kashmir sapphires, noting that “Kashmir sapphires are amongst the most highly prized gems for serious collectors given the mines were only open for a period of approximately 30 years from the late 1880s onwards.” The limited supply and extraordinary beauty of these stones ensure their enduring value and appeal. Bonhams expressed its enthusiasm for showcasing these magnificent stones, alongside other selected lots, in various international cities including London, New York, Hong Kong, and Geneva, anticipating considerable global interest from discerning buyers and serious collectors alike.
The Bonhams London Fine Jewellery Sale was not just an auction; it was a grand exhibition of nature’s wonders and humanity’s finest craftsmanship. From the intense blue brilliance of a rare diamond to the legendary allure of an unheated Kashmir sapphire, and the avant-garde artistry of Andrew Grima, the sale offered a comprehensive journey through the world of high jewellery, promising to captivate and inspire collectors for years to come.
News Source: gjepc.org