November 2021
Revolutionizing Emerald Traceability: MYNE London and Opsydia Pioneer Sub-Surface Identification for Pakistani Emeralds
In a landmark collaboration poised to redefine standards of authenticity and ethical sourcing within the global gemstone industry, leading gemstone security specialist Opsydia has proudly partnered with MYNE London, an esteemed supplier renowned for its ethically and sustainably sourced emeralds. This groundbreaking project permanently embeds MYNE London’s distinct brand logo beneath the surface of its traceable emerald melee supply originating from the picturesque Swat Valley in Pakistan. This innovative application of Opsydia’s state-of-the-art Sub-Surface ID System (D5000) marks a significant leap forward in ensuring the integrity, transparency, and provenance of the colored gemstone supply chain.
The intricate process involved a close partnership between the Opsydia technical team and MYNE London Founders Fiona Wellington and Kate Murray Gordos, alongside their distinguished in-house gemmologist Charles Evans BSc (Hons) FGA DGA. Together, they meticulously developed a precise procedure for inscribing MYNE London’s unique ‘M’ logo within the emeralds. This invisible, sub-surface identifier serves as an irrefutable symbol of authenticity, verifying each emerald’s journey from the Swat Valley. More profoundly, it underscores MYNE London’s broader commitment to supporting local communities, fostering skills development, and promoting essential education and training for women in the region, embodying a holistic approach to ethical trade.

The Imperative for Transparency: Securing Authentic Swat Valley Emeralds
MYNE London’s dedication to ethical trade and the provenance of its gemstones goes far beyond conventional industry practices. Charles Evans, MYNE London’s distinguished Gemmologist, emphasizes the rigorous investment and innovative spirit driving this initiative: “MYNE London has heavily invested in securing Swat Valley emeralds that not only meet but consistently exceed our strict ethical trade criteria. As a dynamic, forward-thinking business specializing in melee sizes – small, often overlooked gemstones – we recognized an urgent need for an innovative solution to ensure traceability.”
He continued, “Our partnership with Opsydia was directly inspired by their recent advancements in placing identifiers beneath the surface of melee diamonds. This breakthrough allowed us to pursue the same unparalleled level of treatment for our MYNE London melee emeralds, even those under 2mm. This innovative step is critical. Any entity serious about authenticating colored gemstones and offering complete reassurance to their discerning clientele can and should now adopt similar practices to safeguard their supply chain and build consumer trust.”
The challenge of securing and authenticating small, melee-sized gemstones has historically been a complex and often overlooked aspect of the industry. Traditional methods frequently fall short when dealing with the sheer volume of tiny stones, making them inherently susceptible to mixing, misrepresentation, or even illicit trade. By applying Opsydia’s cutting-edge technology to these minuscule yet precious emeralds, MYNE London is setting an entirely new benchmark for traceability. This ensures that every single stone, regardless of its size, carries its unique story and verifiable ethical credentials, providing complete peace of mind for buyers and a stronger foundation for responsible sourcing.
Opsydia’s Pioneering Sub-Surface Technology: A Game Changer for the Gemstone Industry
Opsydia’s expertise in advanced gemstone security is meticulously established and widely recognized. The company first successfully trialed its innovative sub-surface technology with colored gemstones as early as 2019, with the groundbreaking results published in the respected Summer 2019 edition of *InColor* magazine, a pivotal publication by the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF). While Opsydia has a proven track record working with diamonds, this specific collaboration with MYNE London represents their inaugural commercial project unequivocally focused on colored gemstones. This presented a unique set of challenges due to the distinct inherent properties of emeralds – their specific crystal structure, color saturation, and the incredible fragility – coupled with the incredibly small sizes of the melee stones involved. The extraordinary ability to precisely place a microscopic feature within emeralds as diminutive as 1.3mm in diameter showcases the unparalleled precision, adaptability, and versatility of the Opsydia Sub-Surface ID System D5000.
Andrew Rimmer, CEO of Opsydia, provides further insight into the system’s remarkable adaptability and industry-wide potential: “Our existing technology and available Sub-Surface ID Systems are optimally suited for permanent, invisible identification in both diamonds and a wide spectrum of colored gemstones. We collaborate intimately with our clients, such as MYNE London, to achieve the perfect visibility and ideal configuration of sub-surface features within each unique gemstone. This cutting-edge technology is readily available for immediate adoption by others in the colored stones trade seeking enhanced security and transparency.”
He added, “Crucially, for businesses dealing in both diamonds and colored stones, we offer complete assurance that a single Opsydia System is fully capable of processing both types of gems with consistent precision and reliability. This inherent flexibility makes the Opsydia system an invaluable and indispensable asset for a diverse gemstone market that is actively striving for enhanced security, verifiable provenance, and unwavering transparency in an increasingly demanding global landscape.”

Precision and Impeccable Quality: The Technical Marvel of Sub-Surface Inscription
The technical sophistication of Opsydia’s inscription method is meticulously engineered to ensure that the process leaves the emerald’s inherent beauty, structural integrity, and intrinsic value entirely unaffected. To date, Opsydia has successfully embedded features within MYNE London emeralds without any discernible impact whatsoever on their clarity grade – a paramount consideration for any precious gemstone where even microscopic inclusions can significantly alter value. The ‘M’ logo is strategically positioned towards the edge of the table facet, approximately 250 micrometers (0.25mm) beneath the surface. This deliberate placement renders it entirely invisible to the unaided naked eye, thereby preserving the emerald’s pristine and natural appearance.
For verification purposes, the brand feature is best observed under a high-power microscope with a minimum of 20x magnification, utilizing reflected light to illuminate the subtle internal marking. Furthermore, the monogram’s placement has been carefully planned and executed to ensure its visibility is maintained even when the melee emerald is expertly set within the delicate confines of a piece of fine jewelry. This thoughtful design allows for ongoing authentication throughout the emerald’s entire lifecycle, from loose stone to finished heirloom, providing continuous assurance of its origin and ethical journey.
Elevating Consumer Confidence and Brand Value Through Verifiable Provenance
This innovative approach directly empowers discerning buyers, offering them unprecedented and verifiable proof that their emeralds have been meticulously sourced by MYNE London and rigorously validated through its stringent, transparent supply chain processes. Fiona Wellington, Co-Founder of MYNE London, eloquently highlights the profound implications for the luxury jewelry industry and consumer trust: “By carrying the MYNE London logo, embedded deep within the gem itself, designers and luxury brands can unequivocally demonstrate that they have played a vital role in bringing a truly premium, ethically-sourced product to market, all while proudly sharing our core values of responsibility and sustainability.”
She further explains the meticulous testing phase that preceded this commercial rollout: “The initial results illustrated in our demonstrations are from ‘A’ clarity stones with a ‘C’ colour grade, which represents a slightly desaturated green specifically chosen for comprehensive testing purposes. However, MYNE London typically deals in ‘Excellent’ ‘A’ or ‘B’ grade stones, representing the pinnacle of emerald quality. We are eagerly anticipating offering these superior quality Pakistani emeralds with the same internal monogram in the coming months, providing unparalleled assurance and a new level of confidence to our esteemed customers.”
In an era where consumers are increasingly conscious and demanding regarding the provenance and ethical footprint of their luxury purchases, such a robust and verifiable system of identification provides an invaluable layer of trust and transparency. It allows luxury brands not only to differentiate themselves in a competitive market but also to offer not just a beautiful product, but a powerful narrative of responsibility, positive social impact, and unwavering commitment to ethical practices. This moves beyond mere marketing, establishing a tangible link between the beauty of the gem and the integrity of its journey.
MYNE London’s Vision: Empowering Communities in the Swat Valley, Pakistan
Andrew Rimmer of Opsydia reiterates the broader, humanistic significance of this groundbreaking partnership: “As a business, we are immensely pleased to be able to support MYNE London and its critically important mission to elevate the global profile of Swat Valley emeralds. A melee emerald containing the ‘M’ sub-surface identifier transcends a mere branding exercise; it is an integral part of a larger, transformative picture that actively promotes equity throughout the supply chain, directly supports women and children in the Swat Valley, and crucially, enables designer-brands to confidently pass on ethical and origin assurances to their customers, fostering a more responsible and equitable global trade for precious gemstones.”
MYNE London’s compelling story is deeply rooted in a profound understanding and heartfelt appreciation for the regions from which they meticulously source their gems. Founded in Belgravia, London, in 2018, MYNE London® specializes in sourcing emeralds ethically, sustainably, and responsibly from the renowned Swat Valley in Pakistan. Beyond the commercial aspects, the company works hand-in-hand with local groups and communities in the region to amplify the positive social impact of emerald mining. Their unwavering focus is on enhancing access to education, providing vital training, and ensuring fair employment opportunities specifically for women, thereby contributing significantly to the socio-economic empowerment and overall well-being of the entire community.
To achieve these noble and ambitious goals, MYNE London actively collaborates with discerning designer-brands, seeking creative avenues and prestigious placements for its exquisite emerald supply. Concurrently, the company also crafts its own luxurious fine jewelry collections, with each piece meticulously designed to embody its foundational values of social and economic empowerment, ethical craftsmanship, and sustainable luxury. This dual approach ensures both widespread impact through strategic partnerships and a direct, tangible expression of their ethos through their own distinct designs.
The visionary founders, sisters Fiona Wellington and Kate Murray Gordos, bring a truly unique and deeply personal perspective to MYNE London. Born in Malaysia and subsequently raised between the vibrant metropolis of London and the culturally rich city of Peshawar, Pakistan, their extensive travels across Pakistan – including the rugged Khyber regions and even into Afghanistan and Kabul – forged a profound, enduring, and intimate relationship with the area and its people. This deeply personal connection profoundly drove their mission to establish a new paradigm for emerald sourcing. In 2018, they assembled an expert team, including the highly accomplished gemmologist Charles Evans BSc FGA DGA, to embark on an investigative journey to the little-known emerald mines hidden within the breathtaking Swat Valley.
The exceptional quality, vibrant color, and remarkable rarity of the Pakistani emeralds discovered there were unequivocally world-class, prompting them to establish a new, fully traceable, and transparent route to market. This groundbreaking initiative effectively bridges the historical gap between ethical extraction, community upliftment, and the global luxury market, setting an unparalleled standard for gemstone supply chains worldwide.
In conclusion, the transformative collaboration between MYNE London and Opsydia represents far more than just a technological advancement; it’s a powerful testament to a shared vision for a more transparent, ethical, and sustainable future for the entire gemstone industry. By securing the identity of every single Pakistani emerald from the Swat Valley, they are not only meticulously protecting the integrity and value of these precious gems but also actively empowering communities and building an unprecedented level of trust and confidence with consumers worldwide. This pioneering initiative sets a powerful precedent, proving unequivocally that true luxury and profound responsibility can, and indeed must, go hand-in-hand to create a more equitable and brilliant future for all.
For more information on MYNE London’s ethical practices and exquisite emerald collections, please visit: Mynelondon.co.uk