The Initiatives in Art and Culture (IAC) proudly hosted its 12th Annual Gold and Diamond Conference, a landmark event that convened at the historic Bohemian National Hall in New York City. Titled “Boldly Building the Future: Gold, Diamonds, and Jewelry in a Transformational Age,” the conference brought together an unparalleled assembly of experts, innovators, and thought leaders from across the global jewelry and precious metals industries. This seminal gathering, held from Monday evening, July 18, through Wednesday evening, July 20, 2022, was meticulously designed to explore the multifaceted challenges and opportunities defining a new era for these ancient trades.
In an age characterized by rapid technological advancement, heightened consumer awareness, and urgent environmental concerns, the conference served as a vital platform for critical discourse. Attendees delved into topics ranging from responsible mining practices and ethical sourcing to the imperative of succession planning and the crucial need to train the next generation of jewelers and goldsmiths. The overarching goal was to foster a sustainable and equitable future for an industry steeped in tradition yet poised for profound transformation. Highlighting the intersection of artistry and ethics, the event celebrated leaders championing responsible practices while simultaneously dissecting the intricate web of global supply chains through the illuminating lens of jewelry.
Shaping the Future: A Conference for a Transformational Age
New York, NY. The 12th annual international conference on gold and diamonds, organized by Initiatives in Art and Culture (IAC), centered on the delicate yet crucial balance between preserving the enduring allure and romantic lore of gems and jewelry—qualities that have captivated consumers for millennia—and addressing the undeniable imperatives of responsible sourcing and ethical practices. These modern demands are directly aligned with global frameworks such as the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals and the commitments made at COP 26, underscoring the industry’s role in broader societal and environmental stewardship.
Navigating this inherent tension, the conference convened a diverse group of trailblazers and visionaries, all committed to dissecting the challenges encountered at every stage of the industry’s continuum. Discussions explored cutting-edge new technologies, compared diverse approaches to mineral extraction, examined strategic corporate succession planning, and considered the vital importance of cultural transmission within craft traditions. Reflecting on the profound timeliness of the conference’s theme, Joanne Lebert, Executive Director of IMPACT, emphasized the necessity for audacious thinking: “Boldness is exactly what we need when tackling complex challenges such as supply chain transparency, market access for artisanal miners in high-risk areas, or sustainable and equitable programs in producer communities. I look forward to pushing the boundaries of our thinking and approach to the future when we meet in July.” Her remarks set a resonant tone for the insightful deliberations that followed.
Honoring Leadership and Outstanding Contributions
In recognition of its unwavering commitment to embracing the challenges and opportunities of the future, IAC proudly bestowed its prestigious awards for thought leadership and transformative change within the industry. This year, the fifth Award for Leadership in Responsible Practice was presented to Mark Hanna, Chief Marketing Officer at Richline. Hanna was lauded for his pioneering efforts and steadfast dedication to fostering ethical and sustainable practices throughout the jewelry supply chain. His visionary leadership has inspired countless others to strive for higher standards of integrity and social responsibility.
Furthermore, the second Award for Outstanding Contributions to the Diamond and Jewelry Industries was fittingly honored to Rob Bates, News Director at JCK. Bates received this distinction for his profound and lasting impact on the industry through his incisive journalism and unwavering commitment to reporting on critical issues. His extensive body of work has not only informed but also challenged the industry to evolve, making him an indispensable voice in shaping its future narrative. These awards underscored IAC’s dedication to acknowledging those who are not merely adapting to change but actively driving it.
Conference Highlights: A Deep Dive into Industry Evolution
The three-day event commenced with an elegant evening reception on Monday, July 18, at the sophisticated midtown showroom of luxury jewelry house CADAR. Esteemed participants from across the United States and international delegations were welcomed by Jean Poh, CEO of CADAR, a brand renowned for its impeccably crafted 18k gold and diamond jewelry. Her remarks at the brand’s Fuller Building boutique underscored the importance of connection and collaboration in an evolving industry, setting an inspiring tone for the days of intensive dialogue ahead. This initial gathering provided a valuable opportunity for networking and shared anticipation.
Day One: Setting the Stage for Transformation
Tuesday morning marked the official opening of the conference, with Lisa Koenigsberg, President of Initiatives in Art and Culture, posing the poignant question, “Why are we here?” Her introductory remarks were followed by an address from Mark Hanna, who reiterated the urgent need for collective engagement. “We find ourselves in a transformational era. Bold inquiry and engagement offer the way forward regarding the pressing issues of our time such as climate, conflict, and origin and are also key in meeting the challenges faced by those crafting jewelry for millennia: to adorn, elevate, and inspire,” Koenigsberg articulated. She further added, “Each day, we realize anew that the work to be ever better has only just begun. IAC is deeply grateful to the authorities and thought leaders who are joining us from throughout the United States and across the globe. The generosity of our sponsors, including CADAR, GIA, Hoover & Strong, Rio Grande, Riva, Sarine, Valcambi, and the World Gold Council, is pivotal for the realization of this event, and we thank them.” These opening statements encapsulated the spirit of the conference: a call to action for an industry at a critical juncture.
Tackling Climate Change and Planning for a Sustainable Future
The inaugural panel, moderated by Mark Hanna, delved into the critical topic of “Climate Change and Planning for the Future.” The discussion highlighted the dramatic changes occurring in global weather patterns, driven by phenomena such as warmer waters and increasingly acidic oceans, and emphasized the essential role of the trade in mitigating long-term environmental impact. Distinguished panelists included Sarah Dupont, Founder of Amazon Aid; John Mulligan, Director and Climate Lead at the World Gold Council; Simone Knobloch, Chief Operating Officer of Valcambi; Helene Piaget, CEO of the Responsible Mining Foundation; and Tensie Whelan, Clinical Professor of Business and Society and Director of the Center for Sustainable Business at NYU Stern School of Business. Their collective expertise offered a comprehensive perspective on both the challenges and the pathways towards greater ecological responsibility within the jewelry sector.
Following this foundational discussion, Cassie Hoffman of Conservation X Labs and Toby Pomeroy, Founder and Director of Mercury Free Mining, presented groundbreaking projects aimed at eliminating the use of mercury in artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM). Their presentations shed light on initiatives like the Challenge Accelerating Innovation for Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining in the Amazon program, the Artisanal Mining Grand Challenge: the Amazon, and the mission of Mercury Free Mining to discover and deploy mercury-free processes for 20 million artisanal gold miners globally. These efforts highlighted innovative solutions to one of the most pressing environmental and health concerns in the mining sector.
Unpacking the Importance of Origin and Traceability
A particularly critical and timely topic, “Origin—definition, determination, and documentation: Where do your gold and diamonds come from and why does it matter?” was then explored. Moderated by Rob Bates, this panel examined what constitutes origin, how it is documented, and the paramount importance of traceability within the supply chain. With a strong emphasis on sustainability, the discussion assessed origin’s profound impact on consumer confidence, the global marketplace, and collective consciousness. Esteemed panelists contributing to this vital conversation included David Block, CEO of Sarine Group; Angel Camacho, a criminal analyst with over a decade of experience in transnational organized crime and a member of the Advisory Board for Amazon Aid; Joanne Lebert, Executive Director of IMPACT; Olivier Demierre, President of Swiss Better Gold and Senior Vice President of Corporate Social Responsibility, MKS PAMP Group Origin Solution; and Christina T. Miller of Christina Tatiana Miller Sustainable Jewelry Consultants. Their insights underscored the intricate challenges and ethical imperatives of ensuring transparency from mine to market.
Securing the Future: Succession and Skill Transmission
The afternoon session continued the focus on building a positive future, addressing “Succession: Transition and ensuring the future in the jewelry and precious metals sectors.” This panel acknowledged that successful intergenerational management transition requires addressing gaps in generation, credibility, and communication, a challenge particularly pronounced in the gem trade where businesses often remain family-owned. Equally vital is the transmission of intricate skills and traditional techniques, which, in many cases, face the risk of being lost. Panelists explored innovative methods for succession planning and shared valuable personal anecdotes. Distinguished participants included Edward Asscher, President of the World Diamond Council; Lita Asscher, Co-President of Royal Asscher Diamond Company; Ted Doudak, CEO of RIVA Precision Manufacturing; and Alice Cicolini, a renowned jewelry designer, curator, and author. Their collective wisdom offered practical guidance and inspirational stories for navigating these critical transitions.
Comparative Approaches in Artisanal and Small-Scale Mining
Following a brief interlude, the spotlight shifted to potential solutions and guiding principles. The session titled “Mining in the ASM Sector: Comparative approaches” explored best practices meticulously adapted to varying geographic and social contexts, aiming to achieve greater equity in production value that directly benefits mining communities. Moderated by Brecken Branstrator, Senior Editor, Gemstones, at National Jeweler, the authoritative voices on the panel included Cristina Villegas, Director, Mine to Market, Pact; Christian Sieber, consultant, Valcambi; Ruby Stocklin-Weinberg, Program Manager, GemFair, De Beers; Olivier Demierre; and Joanne Lebert. Their diverse perspectives highlighted the complexities and nuances of fostering responsible and equitable practices within the artisanal mining sector.
The day concluded with a pivotal Keynote presentation, “Facing Forward: Update from the Kimberley Process and World Diamond Council.” During this session, Edward Asscher provided attendees with the latest news and recent developments that significantly impact the global diamond market. His insights offered a crucial update on regulatory frameworks and industry standards, reinforcing the importance of collaborative governance in maintaining market integrity.
Evening Awards Ceremony: Celebrating Industry Champions
To close the impactful second day, IAC proudly hosted an evening awards ceremony. The fifth Responsible Practice in Jewelry Leadership Award was presented to Mark Hanna, Chief Marketing Officer at Richline. This prestigious award recognizes an individual or organization within the jewelry industry that has made a truly transformational contribution to ethical sourcing and responsible practices worldwide. “Mark thinks boldly, acts with conscience, and ‘dreams big,’ spurring all around him to try also to be ‘ever better.’ He epitomizes the spirit of this award,” remarked Lisa Koenigsberg, President of Initiatives in Art and Culture, underscoring Hanna’s profound influence.
Concluding the evening, IAC presented the second Award for Extraordinary Contributions to the Diamond and Jewelry Industry to Rob Bates, News Editor at JCK. “We are privileged to present Initiatives in Art and Culture’s second Award for Extraordinary Contributions to the Diamond and Jewelry Industries to Rob Bates, with gratitude for his steady, measured hand—and sense of humor. Rob’s over 20 years of reporting at JCK embody the critical role journalism plays in these turbulent times,” Koenigsberg stated. Bates’s dedication to insightful, fair, and often challenging reporting has been instrumental in guiding the industry through complex issues and fostering greater transparency.
Day Two: Global Perspectives and Future Craftsmanship
Day two commenced with a robust discussion grounded in the awareness of increased globalization: “Global Expectations: Language, Legislation, Regulation, and Transformation.” This panel focused on the evolution of industry language, the emergence of new norms, laws, and organizations within an international context, and the often interconnected attendant consequences. The industry’s ongoing metamorphosis was expertly discussed by Gaetano Cavalieri, President of CIBJO—The World Jewellery Confederation; Tiffany Stevens, CEO/President of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee; Theresa M. Forbes, Human Rights and Anti-Corruption Lead, Anti-Human Trafficking Expert, and International AML/CFT Advisor at the US Department of the Treasury; Mark Hanna; Joanne Lebert; and Angel Camacho. Their combined expertise illuminated the complex legal and ethical landscape faced by global jewelry businesses.
Responsible Sourcing: Bridging LSM and ASM
Central to the realization of sustainability is responsible sourcing, a complex challenge at the heart of the next panel, “Mining: Responsible sourcing and best practice at the interface of LSM and ASM.” The conversation was invigorated by the participation of Aimee Boulanger, Executive Director of the Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance (IRMA); Nick Cotts, Vice President – Sustainability and External Relations at Newmont Mining Corporation; Helene Piaget, CEO of the Responsible Mining Foundation; Edward Bickham, senior consultant at the World Gold Council; Cristina Villegas; and Christian Sieber. This panel meticulously explored the distinctions and potential synergies between large-scale mining (LSM) and artisanal and small-scale mining (ASM), emphasizing how best practices can be integrated across both sectors to ensure comprehensive ethical sourcing.
After a lunch break, John Mulligan presented “Matters of Principle and Practice: Towards an Industry Roadmap to Sustainability,” a crucial session distinguishing between aspirational guiding statements of principle, such as declarations, and more detailed roadmaps equipped with actionable, measurable targets. Agreement on foundational statements concerning issues like climate change and human rights is powerful in articulating common values and establishing societal frameworks. Mulligan stated, “The World Gold Council is delighted to be able to support and participate at Initiatives in Art and Culture’s 12th Annual Conference, particularly as the event is firmly focused on the future and with an agenda that features a wide range of jewelry industry leaders seeking to address some of the major challenges of our time.” His presentation provided a strategic framework for moving from ambition to tangible progress.
Cultivating Future Talent: Training Goldsmiths and Jewelers
The importance of succession, extensively discussed on Day one, intrinsically links with ensuring the next generation is exceptionally qualified. The subsequent panel, “Training Goldsmiths and Jewelers for the Future,” meticulously explored how companies, regardless of size, are equipping emerging talent with the essential tools and knowledge to navigate and advance the industry. Ebba Goring, Chief Executive of Scottish Goldsmiths; Nanz Aalund, author of Masters: Gold and A Jeweler’s Guide to Apprenticeships; Karen Westland, Programme Manager for Ethical Making, Scottish Goldsmiths Trust; and Ted Doudak presented diverse perspectives and innovative alternatives to conventional training approaches. Their discussion highlighted the urgent need for robust educational frameworks and apprenticeship models that reflect contemporary industry demands and ethical imperatives.
Shedding further light on the transformative power of foundational documents and shared commitment, Ebba Goring and Karen Westland co-presented a compelling talk titled “Principle in Practice: The Scottish Goldsmiths Trust’s Ethical Making Pledge.” Goring and Westland adeptly addressed ethical making both in theory and practical application, demonstrating the profound capacity of principles embedded in education and craft to shape not only the current generation but also future generations of jewelers and goldsmiths. Their presentation underscored the tangible impact of ethical frameworks on artistic practice and professional development.
Jewelry designer and curator Alice Cicolini further enriched the discourse by exploring another vital dimension of sustainability through her transformative creative vision. She highlighted the critical role that complex skills, such as the Persian enameling technique known as meenakari, play within it. Cicolini observed that such traditional techniques, which have flourished for generations, may face extinction in their original locales as societies evolve. Conversely, they may find new life and flourish elsewhere, with new practitioners potentially located across the globe, thereby emphasizing the dynamic and interconnected nature of cultural preservation in a globalized world.
Concluding Thoughts: Defining the Future of Aesthetic Excellence
The conference culminated with a thought-provoking closing panel: “Who determines the Belperron of the future?” Lisa Koenigsberg, Jean Z. Poh, and Mark Emanuel, owner of David Webb, engaged in an insightful discussion on how aesthetic taste and the canon of “greats” in jewelry are established and evolve. They explored the historical factors central to defining excellence over time and deliberated on what new issues and considerations might fundamentally shift the landscape and broaden the playing field for jewelry design and appreciation in the 21st century. This final session encouraged attendees to reflect on the dynamic interplay of tradition, innovation, and changing societal values in shaping the future of jewelry artistry.
A Grateful Acknowledgment to Our Sponsors
Initiatives in Art and Culture extends its deepest gratitude for the generous support of its esteemed sponsors, whose contributions were instrumental in the successful realization of “Boldly Building the Future: Gold, Diamonds, and Jewelry in a Transformational Age” conference. These pivotal partners included CADAR, GIA, Hoover & Strong, Rio Grande, Riva, Sarine, Valcambi, and the World Gold Council. Their unwavering commitment to advancing ethical practices, innovation, and sustainability within the jewelry industry made this comprehensive and impactful event possible. Their support underscores a shared vision for a more responsible and prosperous future for the entire sector.
The 12th Annual Gold and Diamond Conference stands as a testament to the power of collective effort and shared vision in navigating an industry in flux. It served as a vital forum for exploring innovative, sustainable practices and advocating for responsible sourcing across the entire jewelry supply chain. For more information about Initiatives in Art and Culture and its ongoing commitment to fostering dialogue and transformative change in visual culture, please visit http://artinitiatives.com, or contact them directly at 646-485-1952, or via email at [email protected].
About Initiatives in Art and Culture (IAC)
Initiatives in Art and Culture (IAC) is a distinguished organization dedicated to educating diverse audiences in visual culture, encompassing both the fine and decorative arts. At the core of all IAC endeavors is an unwavering commitment to authenticity, exceptional artisanry, and the intrinsic value of materials. This commitment is seamlessly integrated with a profound mindfulness of sustainability and our collective obligations to the planet. Each undertaking by IAC is characterized by its dedication to bringing together representatives from every sector of an industry, alongside esteemed thought-leaders from other disciplines, industries, and institutions. This unique interdisciplinary approach encourages dialogue and challenges conventional industry discourse, fostering a holistic understanding of complex issues. IAC’s overarching goal is to initiate meaningful dialogue and empower all participants to integrate positive change without hesitation or fear, thereby shaping a more thoughtful and responsible future.
IAC’s primary activities include organizing dynamic conferences, engaging webinars, insightful publications, and compelling exhibitions. These initiatives consistently adopt an interdisciplinary approach, thoroughly considering issues related to fabrication, connoisseurship, cultural patrimony and preservation, and the future trajectory of culture. Particular areas of emphasis for IAC encompass American art, precious substances, the rich history of frames, the influential Arts and Crafts movement, the profound impact of Asian cultures on American fine and decorative art, and the evolving history and future of fashion. The impactful projects undertaken by IAC have consistently garnered generous support from a wide array of individual patrons, corporate entities, and esteemed foundation funders, enabling its continued mission to foster intellectual curiosity and drive positive change across the cultural landscape.