Viewed from space, Earth reveals its true essence as the “blue planet.” This profound hue, the color of expansive skies and deep oceans, naturally inspires vital discussions surrounding sustainability, materials, and our collective cultural heritage. Revered across civilizations, blue adorns some of the world’s most iconic gems and jewelry, from magnificent sapphires to rare blue diamonds. As a primary tool for branding, it’s a ubiquitous choice for corporate uniforms, symbolizing trust and reliability. Historically, rich blue pigments have lent their majestic tone to the robes of the Virgin Mary in countless masterpieces of art. In music, the “blues” evoke a timeless genre synonymous with the jazz era, while denim jeans, a quintessential blue garment, are worn by nearly half the global population at any given moment. Blue is undeniably woven into our cultural DNA, and its ever-evolving renaissance was the captivating focus of Initiatives in Art and Culture’s (IAC) 21st Annual Fashion, Design + Jewelry conference.
Lisa Koenigsberg, President of IAC, articulated the profound choice of the conference’s theme: “For the 21st annual Fashion, Jewels + Design Conference, IAC focused on blue, believing that this particular hue—the color of sea and sky—is one of the most elemental, and therefore powerful, purveyors of color.” She emphasized the honor of hosting an esteemed gathering of designers, jewelers, journalists, and design pioneers, all converging to consider ‘blue’—a color so intrinsically communicative that it transcends the need for words. Koenigsberg extended heartfelt appreciation to project partner, the School of Fashion at Parsons School of Design, for their invaluable engagement and support. She also warmly thanked Louis Vuitton for an informative and elegant evening, and 3×1 along with Vogue Italia Salon Art + Design for curating enriching experiences for attendees. Consistent with IAC’s two-decade legacy, this year’s conference maintained a cross-disciplinary approach, meticulously fusing a focus on materials, artisanal craft, and authentic experience with an unwavering commitment to ethical practice and responsible sourcing.
A Captivating Overture: Thursday’s Insights
The conference commenced on the evening of Thursday, November 14th, at The New School, Parsons. In a beautiful partnership with IAC, the elegant venue was transformed by a lively blues ensemble, their jazz melodies setting a sophisticated and alluring ambiance for the weekend’s engaging activities. The evening began with a captivating sneak peek from Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell, author of “Worn on This Day.” Her forthcoming book promises 365 days of style and provenance, meticulously sharing the compelling stories behind outfits that shaped history. From a royal’s striking blue dress paired with a sapphire engagement ring, to the somber uniforms worn during pivotal historical moments, Chrisman-Campbell masterfully explored the origins and profound meanings embedded within these selected garments. Following her presentation, Cameron Silver, Fashion Director at Halston, and celebrity stylist Andrew Gelwicks, enchanted the audience with their blockbuster conversation, “It’s Chic to Repeat.” They ignited a vital discussion about the staggering proliferation of clothing on Earth—an estimated 100 billion garments for seven billion humans—and underscored the urgent necessity of embracing re-wearing over constant acquisition. Challenging traditional fashion editorials, they proposed shifting the focus from “who wore it better” to “who styled it better.” The act of repeatedly wearing a cherished garment, they argued, becomes a celebration of ownership and personal style. This sparked a lively debate on the intimate relationship between developing a signature style and the conscious practice of re-wearing beloved pieces, emphasizing longevity and personal connection over transient trends.
Friday: Exploring Blue from Field to Runway
Morning Sessions: Craft, Innovation, and Sustainability
Friday’s talks at The New School continued with Roland Ricketts, a distinguished professor and associate dean at the Eskenazi School of Art, Architecture + Design, Indiana University. As an indigo farmer trained in Japan, Ricketts offered a profound exploration of the blue hue, tracing its journey from ancient historical significance to its present-day relevance through the intricate processes of farming, dyeing, and fading. His insights highlighted the sustainable artistry behind this natural dye. Next, legendary fashion designer Stan Herman joined Bridget Foley, executive editor of WWD, for an illuminating discussion on Herman’s extensive body of work. Herman is internationally renowned for designing corporate uniforms for major companies such as Amtrak, JetBlue, TWA, Federal Express, and United Airlines. His signature designs are celebrated for their thoughtful blend of longevity, everyday practicality, and comfort, often featuring numerous pockets and, fittingly, frequently incorporating the color blue to represent corporate identities with enduring style. The conversation then shifted to Converse, featuring Brandon Avery, VP of Global Innovation, and Jessica L’Abbe, Senior Director of Materials and Graphics. They presented Converse’s approach to innovation through two key lanes: functional and emotional, underscoring the company’s dedication to strategic partnerships and incubating groundbreaking ideas. This led to the introduction of the Converse Renew program, an ongoing initiative committed to developing new, innovative, and sustainable methods for product creation. As compelling examples, Converse showcased its experimentation with crafting denim sneakers from upcycled textiles and its current pioneering work on developing a line of iconic Chuck Taylors using recycled plastic. Rounding out the morning, Dana Thomas, author of “Fashionopolis: The Price of Fast Fashion and the Future of Clothes,” delivered a powerful address on sustainable technologies driving positive change in fashion production. She spotlighted exceptional companies with fully traceable supply chains, those utilizing ecological power, refusing to purchase from suppliers that imperil rainforests or other critical environments, and pioneers in reclaimed materials. Thomas also detailed significant strides in sustainable indigo farming and greener, mass-level techniques for distressing denim. Concluding the morning’s diverse presentations, Grant Mobley, U.S. Trade Lead for the Diamond Producers Association, shared a compelling video. It showcased the remarkable transformation of a diamond, intertwining its inherent beauty with the fascinating stories of its geological formation and subsequent journey. He discussed the profound relationship between diamonds and human emotions, most notably love, exploring the rich symbolism of these precious gems. Mobley also offered unique insights into the exceptional rarity of blue diamonds and their resulting privileged status in the world of fine jewelry.
Afternoon Sessions: Artistry, Activism, and Iconic Legacies
Following a networking lunch, fashion designers Kade Johnson and Sergio Guadarrama of Celestino captivated the audience with their presentation, “Celestino Couture: Fluidity, Artisanry, + Sustainability.” Known for their politically active and socially aware stance, Celestino is passionate about making powerful statements through their designs. Their boundary-pushing dresses challenge traditional gender definitions, serve as vehicles for promoting critical issues like reproductive rights, and even fund theatre classes for marginalized children. In an industry and world often marked by inequality, Celestino emphasizes the crucial importance of existing “without oppressing another person, no matter where they come from.” Kade Johnson articulated their design philosophy, stating, “Oftentimes, we look at [our garments] as a form of a warrior garment for a woman. She’s strong, she’s confident, she’s powerful, no matter what she’s wearing.” The subsequent talk, “Blue Notes,” explored the profound influence of blues music and its iconic creators on other forms of artistic expression, spanning from fine art to high fashion. Fashion photographer Arthur Elgort and jazz impresario, photographer, and author Hank O’Neal shared delightful anecdotes from the vibrant jazz industry, celebrating its distinctive style, groundbreaking photography, and the deep beauty inherent in the blues genre. Their session was followed by “Blue: Human Patrimony. Extracting and Transforming Precious Substances into Objects of Desire,” featuring Michael Peters, CEO of Trusted Gems & founder of Panjshir Valley Emeralds, and Elle Hill, CEO of Hill & Co. Fine Jewelry Launch and Growth Experts. They delved into the ethical and cultural dimensions of sourcing and transforming rare materials. The first day’s programming concluded with a tour de force, as legendary fashion designers Zandra Rhodes and Anna Sui engaged in a lively conversation with Joan Agajanian Quinn, former West Coast Editor of Interview magazine. They shared their unique experiences of having museum exhibitions, expressed mutual admiration for each other’s pioneering work, discussed their individual sources of inspiration, and contrasted their approaches to working primarily in textile design versus broader fashion design. Anna Sui, for instance, designs locally while printing overseas, whereas Zandra Rhodes famously began her career hand-screening prints with her boyfriend in their London studio, asserting that “the print created the shapes.” Reflecting on the conference’s overall impact, Joan Agajanian Quinn enthusiastically stated, “I am very, very, very pleased to be a part of the November fashion conference. I have been coming to New York, not only for the fashion conference, but for Lisa’s jewelry conference as well. I am astonished twice a year at the scope of content, the cultural importance, and the high caliber of participants and lectures that are socially relevant. She is brilliant in the way she puts things together.” Friday evening culminated in an exclusive event at Louis Vuitton, where Lisa Koenigsberg raised a toast in memory and honor of the recently passed Patrick-Louis Vuitton, celebrating his immense legacy. The atelier presented a moving video dedicated to design, powerfully illustrating how the house’s signature trunk continues to influence every exquisite design produced by Louis Vuitton to this day.
Saturday: Immersive Experiences in Blue
Saturday, November 16th, offered Initiatives in Art and Culture Blue conference attendees an enriching series of back-to-back excursions. The day began with a visit to 3×1 Denim, where the group was treated to an exclusive, behind-the-scenes tour of the company’s renowned full-transparency operation. 3×1 prides itself on crafting ready-to-wear, custom, and bespoke denim options all under one roof, with an impressive display of over 70 rolls of premium denim lining the walls, complemented by a plethora of thread, pocket, and button choices. Their in-house pattern-making capabilities and an esteemed clientele of celebrities have established 3×1 as a premier destination for the perfect pair of jeans, a true homage to the tried-and-true signature of blue. Later in the afternoon, conference attendees had the unique opportunity to meet Alexandra Mor at The Protagonist, Vogue Italia’s prestigious annual jewelry exhibition, held at the Salon Art + Design at the Park Avenue Armory. Greeted with a personal tour through the captivating exhibits, Alexandra introduced each featured artist and collection, passionately highlighting each designer’s commitment to promoting responsible and natural gemstone sourcing, alongside sustainable business practices and exceptional high design. Mor eloquently expressed her appreciation for IAC’s steadfast mission: “IAC has been a committed platform, promoting the voice of the jewelry and fashion industry for many years. It was an honor to welcome the Blue Conference to Vogue Italia’s Protagonist exhibit at the Salon Art + Design, to provoke thought about sustainability and encourage the conversation of mindful practices in the jewelry industry and beyond. As we share and inspire others to do the same, we can make the world a better place for future generations.”
The 21st Annual Fashion, Design + Jewelry conference on the color blue proved to be an exceptional gathering, illuminating the multifaceted influence of this elemental hue across art, culture, and industry. Through insightful discussions, innovative presentations, and immersive experiences, IAC once again fostered a crucial dialogue on ethical practice, sustainable innovation, and the enduring power of design.
About Initiatives in Art and Culture
Initiatives in Art and Culture (IAC) is dedicated to educating diverse audiences in the fine, decorative, and visual arts. Our core activities encompass conferences, publications, and exhibitions that adopt a comprehensive interdisciplinary approach. We delve into critical issues related to fabrication, connoisseurship, cultural patrimony, cultural preservation, and the evolving future of culture. Particular areas of emphasis include American painting, precious substances, the history of frames, the influential Arts and Crafts movement, the impact of Asian cultures on American fine and decorative art, and the rich history and dynamic future of fashion. IAC’s impactful projects are generously supported by a wide array of individual patrons, corporate partners, and esteemed foundation funders.
