The world of fine jewelry, with its inherent allure and profound cultural significance, stands at a pivotal juncture. As consumers increasingly demand transparency and ethical practices, the industry must evolve to meet these new realities while preserving the timeless enchantment of gold and gems. Initiatives in Art and Culture (IAC), a leading non-profit organization dedicated to fostering dialogue and education across various cultural sectors, proudly celebrated the 11th anniversary of its International Gold and Diamond Conference. This landmark virtual event, titled “New Realities, Future Promise,” brought together an unparalleled assembly of industry leaders, experts, and stakeholders to address the most pressing challenges and promising opportunities facing the global jewelry and diamond sectors.
Held virtually from July 13-15, 2021, the conference marked a significant evolution for IAC, blending the robust digital approach developed during the challenges of 2020-21 with the comprehensive breadth and depth characteristic of its traditional in-person events. Lisa Koenigsberg, President of Initiatives in Art and Culture, underscored the dual imperatives guiding this year’s agenda: “The industry must preserve the magic, romance, and emotional power gold, diamonds, and jewelry represent for the consumer, while at the same time doing the hard work required to meet the imperatives of responsible sourcing and practice, environmental and social awareness— all of which underpin the United Nations’ Sustainable Development Goals.” This vision set the stage for three days of incisive discussions, groundbreaking insights, and the recognition of individuals who have made extraordinary contributions to shaping a more responsible and sustainable future for the industry.
Addressing Global Expectations and the Imperative of Transparency
The opening day of “New Realities, Future Promise” commenced with a powerful session, “Global Expectations: Language, Legislation, Regulation, and Transformation,” moderated by esteemed gem and jewelry consultant Katherine Andrews. This panel delved into the critical role that precise language plays in the formulation of effective legislation and regulation, and how these frameworks are designed to drive global transformation within the industry. Distinguished panelists included George Cajati, Foreign Affairs Officer, U.S. Department of State, Bureau of Economic and Business Affairs’ Office of Threat Finance Countermeasures; Tiffany Stevens, CEO of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee; Mark Hanna, Chief Marketing Officer at Richline; and Iris Van der Veken, Executive Director of the Responsible Jewellery Council. Their collective insights illuminated the intricate interplay between policy, ethics, and industry practice, emphasizing the necessity of clear, consistent standards across international borders to ensure integrity and consumer trust.
A significant portion of the first day was dedicated to the critical journey of a diamond from mine to market, with a particular focus on the escalating importance of traceability and sustainability. The panel “Transparency: Diamond Origin and the Consumer” brought together authoritative voices to discuss how the industry can ensure and communicate the origin of diamonds to an increasingly discerning global consumer base. Panelists included Anisa Costa, Chief Sustainability Officer at Tiffany & Co.; Eira Thomas, CEO of Lucara Diamond; Cathryn Ramirez, GG Executive Director, Alumni Development and Continuing Education at GIA; David Block, CEO of Sarine Group; Allison Charalambous, Head of Responsible Sourcing and Sustainability at Brilliant Earth; and Stephen D’Esposito, CEO of DDI at RESOLVE. Moderated by Rob Bates, News Director at JCK, this conversation underscored how cutting-edge technology, robust due diligence, and transparent communication are indispensable for building and maintaining consumer confidence in diamond sourcing and authenticity. The discussions highlighted the evolving landscape where provenance is not just a marketing tool but a fundamental expectation.
Equally important was a deep dive into the world of gold, a precious metal that has served as a store of value and a symbol of wealth for millennia. The session, “Where does your gold come from, and Why does it matter?” explored the complex journey of gold, from its extraction to its transformation into fine jewelry. Moderated by Lisa Koenigsberg herself, the discussion featured Angel Camacho, a criminal analyst with extensive experience in transnational organized crime; Luis E Fernandez, Executive Director of CINCIA and Research Associate Professor of Biology at Wake Forest University; Shamiso Mtisi, an environmental lawyer and Head of Research at the Zimbabwe Environmental Law Association; Jen Peyser, Senior Mediator and Director of the Ethical Resource Program at RESOLVE; and Joanne Lebert, Executive Director of IMPACT. The panel shed light on the intricate supply chains, the socio-environmental impacts of mining, and the urgent need for responsible sourcing practices that protect both people and the planet. The collective expertise shared ensured that even seasoned industry veterans gained new perspectives on the challenges and ethical responsibilities inherent in the gold sector.
Celebrating Storytelling and Championing Responsible Mining
Day two commenced with a celebration of the enduring power of storytelling in the jewelry world. The session “Romancing the Stone,” moderated by Dave Bindra, Vice President of B&B Gems, explored how narrative and heritage imbue gems and jewelry with deeper meaning and emotional resonance. Bindra engaged in conversation with Roger and Ginger Dery, Principals of Roger Dery Gem Design, renowned for their ethical sourcing and unique cutting techniques; Prince Dimitri, a distinguished jeweler and author of “Once Upon a Diamond: A Family Tradition of Royal Jewels”; and Paul Schneider, owner of TWIST. Their insights highlighted how personal stories, historical contexts, and artistic vision contribute to the desirability and legacy of fine jewelry, reminding attendees of the magic that captivated consumers for centuries.
Further embracing the narrative, conference attendees were then invited to delve into the pages of “Bejeweled: The World of Ethical Jewelry” (Rizzoli, 2019). This immersive segment featured a conversation with two designers profiled in the book, Ana Katerina and Alice Cicolini, alongside the book’s author, Kyle Roderick, and Lisa Koenigsberg. This discussion explored the growing movement towards ethical jewelry design, highlighting designers who prioritize responsible sourcing, sustainable practices, and fair labor throughout their creative processes. It served as a powerful reminder that beauty and ethics can, and must, coexist.
The afternoon focused on the foundational aspect of the industry: mining. A crucial panel titled “Mining: Responsible Sourcing and Best Practice” introduced in-depth considerations for ensuring ethical and sustainable practices at the very source of precious materials. The discussion explored the profound import of geographic and social contexts, acknowledging that “best practice” can vary significantly depending on local conditions and community needs. Authoritative panelists examined how mining operations can generate positive outcomes that genuinely benefit mining communities, including greater equity in profit-sharing, enhanced social development, and minimized environmental impact. Guided by moderator Jennifer-Lynn Archuleta, Consulting Editor, Gems & Jewellery, Gem-A, the panel featured Aimee Boulanger, Executive Director of the Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance (IRMA); Nick Cotts, Vice President of Mining at Newmont; Cristina Villegas, Director, Mine to Market, Pact; Feriel Zerouki, Senior Vice President, Corporate Affairs, De Beers Group; and Robert Weldon, Director, Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library at GIA. These experts detailed their organizations’ initiatives with artisanal miners and discussed overarching industry best practices designed to uplift communities and protect ecosystems, striving for a mining sector that contributes positively to global sustainable development.
Recognizing Leaders in Responsible Practice
A highlight of day two was the presentation of the Fourth Annual Initiatives in Art and Culture Award for Leadership in Responsible Practice in Jewelry. This prestigious award, annually bestowed upon a member of the jewelry industry or a jewelry-focused organization, recognizes transformative contributions to ethical sourcing and responsible practices within the global gem and jewelry trade. This year, the honor was shared by two profoundly influential figures: Cristina Villegas, Director, Mine to Market, Pact, and Robert Weldon, Director, Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library at GIA.
Upon receiving the award, Cristina Villegas articulated the significance of such recognition: “Initiatives in Art and Culture (IAC) has been committed to issues of responsible practice for over a decade, and since the inception of IAC’s important prize, each year it has been presented to galvanizing figures. I am deeply humbled to receive such an award, and to be sharing it with as inspirational a figure as Robert Weldon. My own reformist journey has only just begun, and there is still so much to do; at the same time, receiving such an award proves how quickly one can make meaningful change. There are so many wonderful changemakers already in this sector, and with the right combination of know-how and some grit, sector-changing programs can happen before our eyes.” Her words resonated with the audience, underscoring the ongoing commitment required to drive ethical reform and the profound impact individuals can have when empowered and recognized.
The Enduring Legacy and Socioeconomic Impact of Diamonds
The final day of IAC’s powerhouse conference was dedicated to diamonds, the undisputed “king of gems” and a bedrock upon which the industry is firmly rooted, featuring prominently in the majority of gem and jewelry sales. Day three commenced with a captivating panel titled “The Heart of the Matter,” exploring the profound importance of the diamond cut and how this crucial characteristic significantly impacts consumer behavior and perception. The session featured leading lights in gemological research and industry leadership: Al Gilbertson, Project Manager, Cut Research at GIA; Edward Asscher, President of the World Diamond Council; and Eve Goldberg, Principal at William Goldberg. Moderated by the distinguished British jewelry historian Jack Ogden, author of “Diamonds: An Early History of the King of Gems,” the discussion provided invaluable insights into the artistry and science behind diamond cutting, and its role in unlocking the gem’s full brilliance and market value.
Following this, “Total Clarity: The Socioeconomic Impact of Diamonds” offered a comprehensive discussion on the multifaceted ways the diamond industry has endeavored to address its social impact and foster community benefits. This critical conversation featured a stellar lineup of panelists: Sheila Khama, policy adviser on the mineral, oil, and gas industries at the World Bank (and formerly Corporate Secretary at Anglo-American in Botswana and CEO of DeBeers, Botswana); Pat Dambe, Vice President, Market Outreach, De Beers Group Global Sightholder Sales; Catherine Sarr, jewelry designer and founder of Almasika Fine Jewellery; and Eira Thomas, CEO of Lucara Diamond. These luminaries explored how the industry can strategically position itself for the future, ensuring that diamond extraction and trade contribute positively to economic development, education, healthcare, and community empowerment, particularly in producing nations. Their collective insights painted a clear picture of an industry striving for greater accountability, transparency, and a positive legacy beyond mere economic value.
Honoring Extraordinary Contributions and Collaborative Spirit
The virtual conference culminated with a deeply significant moment: the presentation of the inaugural Initiatives in Art and Culture Award for Extraordinary Contributions to the Diamond and Jewelry Industries. This new award, reflecting IAC’s steadfast belief in the power of collaboration, community, and unwavering commitment, was designed to recognize and honor exceptional ongoing engagement and dedication towards realizing positive change within these vital sectors. The first recipient of this prestigious award was Edward Asscher, a towering figure in the diamond world and President of the World Diamond Council.
In his acceptance, Asscher humbly emphasized the collaborative nature of progress: “Making changes to the diamond world is never the result of one individual. It is always teamwork. The World Diamond Council has worked as a team with various partners since 2000, and I have always been involved. But the team contributing to change also includes the Kimberley Process Task Force, the Responsible Jewellery Council, the CIBJO, the IDMA, and the WFDB. So, although I very much appreciate receiving IAC’s important award, I want to share it with my colleagues in the WDC, the RJC and the CIBJO, the IDMA, and the WFDB.” His gracious remarks underscored a fundamental truth: significant, lasting change is a collective endeavor, built on the shared commitment and tireless efforts of numerous dedicated individuals and organizations working in concert.
A Vision for the Future: Partnerships and Progress
Initiatives in Art and Culture expressed profound gratitude to its generous industry sponsors, whose support made this impactful conference possible: GIA, a Gold Level Sponsor; DMIA and Sarine, Contributing Level Sponsors; and Royal Asscher, a Pathfinder Level Sponsor. Lisa Koenigsberg, IAC’s visionary founder, eloquently concluded the event by reflecting on the auspicious timing: “During this Emersonian ‘refulgent summer’ of 2021, at the threshold of a decade of change, challenge and opportunity, we reach out to all embarked on this journey. In a spirit of openness and shared commitment, Initiatives in Art and Culture is delighted to further deepen our partnerships and collaborations with organizations, individuals, and entities through this shared undertaking.” This statement encapsulated IAC’s enduring mission: to serve as a catalyst for critical discourse, forge strategic alliances, and inspire collective action towards a more ethical, transparent, and sustainable future for the international gold and diamond industries. The “New Realities, Future Promise” conference undoubtedly affirmed IAC’s pivotal role in guiding this essential transformation.