Jewelers of America (JA), the esteemed national trade association dedicated to empowering businesses within the fine jewelry marketplace, in collaboration with the distinguished GEM Awards committee, proudly announces the highly anticipated nominees for the 18th Annual GEM Awards. These prestigious honors span three pivotal categories: Jewelry Design, Media Excellence, and Retail Innovation. The eagerly awaited winners in each of these fiercely contested categories will be unveiled live during a glamorous gala event on Friday, January 10, 2020, held at the opulent Cipriani 42nd Street in the heart of New York City.
The GEM Awards stand as a beacon of recognition, established to celebrate and elevate individuals and brands whose extraordinary work significantly raises the visibility, prestige, and overall status of fine jewelry and watches. Each nominee represents the pinnacle of achievement in their respective fields and award categories, embodying the innovation, artistry, and dedication that drive our vibrant industry forward. Their contributions not only inspire peers but also captivate consumers, continually redefining what excellence means in the world of luxury adornment. This year’s selection of nominees truly exemplifies the diverse talents and groundbreaking efforts shaping the future of fine jewelry and horology.
Celebrating Excellence: The 18th Annual GEM Awards Unveils Esteemed Nominees
The fine jewelry and watch industry is a realm of timeless beauty, intricate craftsmanship, and profound emotional connection. At its zenith, the GEM Awards by Jewelers of America serves as the industry’s most revered celebration, recognizing the visionaries, innovators, and storytellers who elevate this world to new heights. The upcoming 18th Annual GEM Awards promises to be an unforgettable evening, honoring those who have demonstrated unparalleled commitment to excellence across design, media, and retail. This event is not merely an awards ceremony; it is a testament to the enduring allure and dynamic evolution of luxury jewelry and watches.
GEM Award for Jewelry Design Nominees: Masters of Craft and Vision
The GEM Award for Jewelry Design acknowledges the extraordinary talents of designers who transform precious materials into wearable art. These artists challenge conventions, set new trends, and imbue each piece with unique narratives and profound aesthetic appeal. Their creations are not just accessories; they are expressions of identity, heirlooms of tomorrow, and testament to the infinite possibilities of human creativity.
Ana Khouri
Ana Khouri’s journey into jewelry design is deeply rooted in her extensive background in sculpting, a discipline she has passionately pursued since 2002. This foundational understanding of form, volume, and the interplay of light and shadow profoundly informs her approach to jewelry. Launching her eponymous, New York-based line in 2013, Khouri quickly distinguished herself with a unique design philosophy centered on how a piece interacts with the wearer’s body, creating a harmonious balance and seamless extension of self. For Ana, jewelry is an intimate experience, a myriad of ways a design can take shape and resonate with the human form. She eloquently articulates her aspiration: “The feeling I want to impart is one of radiance, in every sense: That of light, of emotion, of energy and, of course, that of beauty.” Beyond her exquisite aesthetics, Ana Khouri stands as a pioneer in ethical luxury. Her commitment to responsible practices is unwavering, utilizing exclusively 18K Fairmined and Fairtrade gold or platinum, complemented by meticulously sourced, ethically and responsibly acquired gemstones. Her work transcends mere adornment, offering pieces that are not only visually stunning but also embody integrity and conscious craftsmanship.
Nikos Koulis
A Greek designer who has achieved resounding worldwide recognition and success, Nikos Koulis hails from a family deeply embedded in the jewelry business, providing him with an early, invaluable immersion in the craft. Building upon this legacy, he pursued formal education in Gemology and Glyptography at the prestigious Gemological Institute of America (GIA), honing his technical expertise and artistic vision. In 2006, he launched his own distinguished brand, Nikos Koulis Jewels, which rapidly garnered international acclaim for its bold yet elegant aesthetic. Greece remains the heart of his operations, housing his vibrant Athens atelier and two conceptual boutiques that reflect his innovative spirit. Beyond his homeland, Koulis’s distinctive pieces are coveted and sold in over 30 cities across the globe, testament to their universal appeal. Nikos maintains an exceptionally hands-on approach, personally overseeing every stage of creation, from the initial design concept to the meticulous sourcing of stones and the intricate production in his workshops. His visionary designs have earned him a plethora of prestigious accolades, including an impressive four COUTURE Design Awards, the distinguished 2017 VicenzaOro Best International Jewelry Designer Award, and the esteemed 2018 Town & Country Jewelry Award. Notably, Koulis is a past nominee for the GEM Award for Jewelry Design, further solidifying his consistent impact and innovation within the industry.
Carlo Traglio
Carlo Traglio, the visionary President of Vhernier, was born in the picturesque city of Como, Italy, a region renowned for its artistry and craftsmanship. His formative years included a pivotal year after high school spent studying and working alongside maestro Frattini, a premium Italian jeweler. This intensive apprenticeship provided him with an unparalleled understanding of the unique and fascinating facets of goldsmithing, laying a robust foundation for his future endeavors. During his early career as a young executive at his family’s Coca-Cola bottling company, Traglio passionately continued to design and handcraft jewelry in his free time, simultaneously cultivating a profound love for modern and contemporary art. This deep sensibility for modern aesthetics profoundly impacted the creative vision that would eventually underpin his Vhernier collections, distinguishing them with a striking sculptural quality and an innovative use of materials. In 2001, in a bold move driven by his passion, Carlo left his family’s corporate business to acquire Vhernier. His mission was clear: to not only preserve the Italian jewelry company’s unique identity and remarkable tradition of excellence but also to infuse it with a renewed sense of modernity and artistic expression, propelling Vhernier onto the global stage as a beacon of contemporary Italian high jewelry.
GEM Award for Media Excellence Nominees: Shaping Narratives and Insights
The GEM Award for Media Excellence celebrates the journalists, editors, and content creators who artfully articulate the stories, trends, and intrinsic value of the fine jewelry and watch world. Through their insightful reporting, engaging narratives, and critical analysis, these individuals serve as vital conduits, connecting the industry with a global audience and shaping public perception of luxury adornment. They illuminate the craftsmanship, innovation, and cultural significance behind every exquisite piece.
Anthony DeMarco
Anthony DeMarco is a highly respected writer and editor, renowned for his comprehensive and insightful coverage of the luxury jewelry and watch industry. His expertise spans a broad spectrum, approaching the sector from crucial business and marketing perspectives, as a pursuit of lifestyle and luxury, and through the discerning lens of design and fashion. DeMarco’s compelling work can be found in an impressive array of top-tier publications, including Forbes.com, Rapaport Magazine, The Financial Times, The Economist 1843 Magazine, and VO+. Beyond traditional media, his influential Jewelry News Network blog and vibrant social media platforms serve as dynamic showcases for the sheer beauty and intricate craftsmanship of luxury jewelry and watches. Crucially, DeMarco uses these platforms not just to admire, but to meticulously explain the industry’s profound importance as a vital economic engine operating throughout the world. His distinguished journey in the jewelry and watch world commenced at JCK magazine, where he dedicated nine years to managing the publication’s website and e-newsletter, all while specializing in reporting on how evolving technology was fundamentally reshaping and innovating the industry landscape. His contributions offer a holistic view, making complex industry dynamics accessible and engaging to a broad audience.
Rachel Garrahan
Rachel Garrahan holds the esteemed position of Jewelry and Watch Director at British Vogue, where, under the influential editorship of Edward Enninful, she has profoundly expanded the magazine’s coverage of these intricate subjects. Her leadership has introduced Vogue’s discerning readership to a wealth of emerging talent, while simultaneously celebrating the very best in design and craftsmanship from around the globe. Garrahan’s deep fascination with jewelry and its unique ability to tell the stories of our lives is vividly evident in her insightful and eloquent writing for the International New York Times, where her pieces resonate with a profound understanding of the emotional and historical significance of adornment. After a decade spent immersing herself in the vibrant cultures of New York and Los Angeles, Rachel has now returned to her native London, where she continues to shape narratives within the luxury sector. Her compelling features and interviews have graced the pages of a diverse array of prestigious publications on both sides of the Atlantic, including The 1843 (The Economist), Financial Times, The Times of London, Vanity Fair, Tatler, Conde Nast Traveller, Robb Report, Wallpaper, Town and Country, and T Magazine, establishing her as a leading voice in luxury media.
Tanya Dukes
Tanya Dukes is a highly respected New York City-based writer and stylist, celebrated for her profound expertise and discerning eye in the realm of fine jewelry. Her illustrious career in editorial began 15 years ago when she joined the staff of the exclusive private jet lifestyle magazine, Elite Traveler. Her talent and dedication quickly propelled her through the ranks, eventually seeing her appointed as the publication’s first-ever Style Editor, where she defined and refined its luxury aesthetic. Following a successful tenure as Accessories Editor of Brides magazine, Dukes transitioned to a pivotal role as Senior Editor for two influential, affiliated publications singularly focused on the jewelry industry: INDESIGN and INSTORE magazines. In these capacities, she contributed significantly to shaping industry discourse and trends. Her insightful work, characterized by its elegance and authority, has appeared in a wide array of prestigious publications, including Watch Journal, Four Seasons Magazine, The Hollywood Reporter, JCK, The Knot, The Business of Fashion, and The Jewellery Editor. Tanya Dukes continues to be an influential voice, offering unparalleled insights into the artistry and business of fine jewelry.
GEM Award for Retail Innovation Nominees: Pioneering the Future of Experience
The GEM Award for Retail Innovation honors businesses that are redefining the customer journey, creating immersive and unforgettable brand environments, and pushing the boundaries of how fine jewelry and watches are presented and sold. These nominees demonstrate visionary leadership in adapting to evolving consumer expectations, leveraging technology, and cultivating unique retail experiences that resonate deeply with today’s sophisticated clientele. They are shaping the future landscape of luxury retail.
Foundrae
“Classic. Personal. Autobiographical.” These words succinctly capture the essence of Foundrae, a collection that transcends mere jewelry to become powerful modern heirlooms. Co-founded in 2015 by the visionary husband-and-wife team, Murat and Beth Bugdaycay, Foundrae pieces are designed to allow the wearer to express profound aspects of themselves to the world. Like all true heirlooms, each creation tells a story – a narrative that is both ancient and profoundly relevant. The stories woven into Foundrae jewelry explore universal human quests for inner peace, enduring love, and innate strength, themes that resonate across cultures and generations. Beth Bugdaycay, the creative director, meticulously designs each piece to carry symbolic weight, inviting the wearer to imbue it with their own personal meaning. In 2018, Foundrae marked a significant milestone with the opening of its flagship store in New York City. This space was thoughtfully conceived to be more than a retail outlet; it’s an inspiring environment that perfectly mirrors the deeply personal nature of the collection, creating a comfortable yet luxurious sanctuary where clients can connect with the brand’s philosophy and find pieces that speak directly to their soul.
HODINKEE Shop
Established in 2008 by Ben Clymer, HODINKEE has remarkably evolved to become the foremost and most respected destination for all things within the intricate and captivating world of horology. Over the past decade, Clymer and his dedicated team have meticulously nurtured HODINKEE from a nascent blog into a robust, multi-faceted media and retail platform. This transformation has been driven by a commitment to providing a respected point of view on crucial industry news and new releases, coupled with a significant investment in engaging and creative storytelling that resonates deeply with watch enthusiasts and newcomers alike. HODINKEE’s expansive ecosystem now includes a designated podcast offering in-depth discussions, a beautifully produced bi-annual print publication, and a highly successful retail outlet, the HODINKEE Shop. At its very core, HODINKEE’s enduring goal is to bring its vast readership and loyal consumer base the very best in wristwatches, presented in a manner that is consistently approachable, entirely authentic, and refreshingly honest. They have demystified the often-intimidating world of high horology, making it accessible and fostering a global community of passionate collectors and admirers.
TWIST
TWIST is the direct, passionate culmination of the profound connection that owners Paul Schneider and Lauren Eulau share with professional artists and designers. Their unique journey began with prior incarnations as a potter and a weaver, respectively, where they honed their artistic sensibilities by creating and selling their own art for a living. This deep, personal understanding of the creative process and the inherent value of handcrafted work has been instrumental in shaping TWIST into a distinctive visual landscape of finely curated designer jewelry. Schneider and Eulau have meticulously built an ever-changing, dynamic collection that showcases both exquisite fine design and captivating wearable art. The relationships they cultivate with each individual artist and designer are characterized by rich sharing, regular interactive dialogues, and mutual respect, fostering a true partnership that goes beyond mere retail. This collaborative spirit ensures a constantly evolving selection of unique pieces. TWIST extends its reach through two inviting retail locations, situated in Portland and Seattle, offering tangible spaces for discovery. Complementing these physical stores is a highly dynamic and engaging e-commerce website, twistonline.com, which provides a seamless online experience for a global clientele, further expanding their curated vision to a wider audience.
Honoring a Legacy: The GEM Award for Lifetime Achievement
Beyond the recognition of contemporary excellence in design, media, and retail, the 2020 GEM Awards will also bestow its highest honor: the GEM Award for Lifetime Achievement. This year, the prestigious award will be presented to Ed Bridge, a titan whose indelible contributions have profoundly shaped the fine jewelry and watch industry over decades. The Lifetime Achievement Award is a profound testament to an individual’s enduring impact, visionary leadership, and unwavering dedication. Ed Bridge’s legacy is marked by pioneering efforts, significant innovations, and a steadfast commitment to the values that underpin our industry. His influence has not only driven progress but also inspired countless professionals, leaving an indelible mark on the landscape of luxury adornment. This honor celebrates a career dedicated to excellence and a lifetime of shaping the future of fine jewelry.
Support the Future of Fine Jewelry and Watches
The GEM Awards are far more than just an evening of glittering recognition and celebration; they are a vital cornerstone for the entire fine jewelry and watch industry. Proceeds generated from the GEM Awards directly benefit invaluable industry programs that are meticulously designed to enhance Jewelers of America’s overarching mission: to improve and solidify consumer confidence in jewelry and watches. By supporting the GEM Awards, you contribute directly to initiatives that promote ethical practices, provide essential education, and reinforce the integrity and trustworthiness of our cherished industry. These programs are crucial for fostering a robust and sustainable future for all stakeholders, from designers and retailers to consumers worldwide.
We invite you to join us in celebrating these exceptional individuals and visionary brands who continuously push the boundaries of creativity and innovation. To demonstrate your support for the honorees, purchase sponsorships, or explore compelling advertising opportunities that connect you with key industry leaders and decision-makers, please visit our dedicated website at www.jewelers.org/gemawards. Your participation helps champion the artistry, integrity, and forward-thinking spirit that define the exquisite world of fine jewelry and watches. Join us in making the 18th Annual GEM Awards a landmark event for the industry.